Contents

pp v-vi

List of plates

pp vii-viii

List of figures

pp ix-xi

List of contributors

pp xii-xiv

Acknowledgements

pp xv-xvi

Introduction: Jim Crow’s tuxedo

pp 1-26

Part I: - Between metaphor and materiality

pp 27-28

1 - Smock frock farmer or smock frock radical? Political interpretations of one garment in nineteenth-century England

pp 29-55

2 - A delicate balance of power: Victorian tailors and their gentlemen clients

pp 56-77

3 - Second-hand clothes, second-hand politics: Sartorial exchange, social reform, and the work of the novel in Walter Besant’s Children of Gibeon

pp 78-96

Part II: - Reading appearances

pp 97-98

4 - ‘If you want to get ahead, get a hat’: Manliness, power, and politics via the top hat

pp 99-125

5 - Dressing for disinterestedness: Herbert Spencer, John Stuart Mill, and John Morley

pp 126-150

6 - Sartorial subversion and the House of Commons: Political identities, meanings, and the responses to MPs’ dress, c. 1850–1914

pp 151-170

7 - Dressing for the vote in Ford Madox Brown’s Work

pp 171-190

Part III: - Global connections and entanglements

pp 191-192

8 - Spectacles of grandeur and fabrics for the brave: The West India Regiments’ dress until 1900

pp 193-220

9 - ‘The philosophy of clothes’: Politics and dress in Melbourne Punch, 1860s–1870s

pp 221-245

10 - Gertrude Bell, femme impériale

pp 246-266

Index

pp 267-274

Plates

pp 275-282