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ORNAMENT AND DESIGN: A NEGLECTED EARLY SEVENTEETH-CENTURY ALBUM

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  27 November 2025

Simon Swynfen Jervis*
Affiliation:
Simon Swynfen Jervis, 45 Bedford Gardens, London W8 7EF.
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Abstract

This paper anatomises and illustrates drawings and prints in the British Museum extracted from an early seventeenth-century album. The drawings, which were inserted by the museum into a new album, suggest that the original album originated in the workshop of a London goldsmith with German or central European origins who worked for the royal court and had a connection to Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter. Particular attention is paid to forty-four ornament prints, mainly German, long separated from the drawings. Nearly all are signal additions to the canon of engraved ornament documented in London at this early date. The ensemble thus reassembled is a rare window into design sources, style and processes early in the Stuart period.

Information

Type
Research paper
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2025. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of The Society of Antiquaries of London
Figure 0

Fig 1. Adriaen Collaert, Juno, from his ‘Judgment of Paris’ suite of six plates, engraving, Antwerp, before 1593. BM no. 1917,0609.32. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 1

Fig 2. Hans Collaert, pendant jewel with Diana, from a suite of ten plates, engraving, Antwerp, published by Hans Liefrinck, 1573 or earlier. BM no. 1917,0609.31. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 2

Fig 3. Hans Collaert, title page, Monilium…Icones, with pendant jewel, from a suite of ten plates, engraving, Antwerp, published by Philip Galle, 1581. BM no. 1917,0609.25. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 3

Fig 4. Hans Collaert, pendant jewel with Neptune, from a second suite of ten plates, Altera Pars, engraving, Antwerp, published by Philip Galle, 1582. BM no. 1917,0609.29. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 4

Fig 5. Bernhart Zan, double cup, from a suite of forty plates, dotted manner engraving, 1581, Ansbach, published by Stefan Hermann, 1584. BM no. 1917,0609.59. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 5

Fig 6. Paul Flindt, tankard, one of twenty-five reduced copies from a suite of forty plates (Andreas Lüning, Vienna, 1593), dotted manner engraving, Amsterdam, published by Ahasuerus van Londerseel, probably 1598. BM no. 1917,0609.37. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 6

Fig 7. Daniel Mignot, pendant with motifs for enamelling from a suite of nine plates, Tout Bien Vient de Dieu, engraving, Augsburg, 1593. BM no. 1917, 0609.44. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 7

Fig 8. Daniel Mignot, pendant, Iustitia, with motifs for enamelling from a suite of eight plates of Virtues, engraving, Augsburg, 1593. BM no. 1917,0609.58. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 8

Fig 9. Paul Birckenhultz, title page, Ars His Myronis…, with pendant jewel mounted as a vase from a suite of six plates, engraving, probably Frankfurt, about 1600. BM no. 1917,0609.21. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 9

Fig 10. Monogrammist PRK, pendant jewel from a suite of seven plates, engraving, probably Amsterdam, 1609. BM no. 1917,0609.30. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 10

Fig 11. Guillaume de la Quewellerie, ornaments for enamelling from a suite of six plates, engraving, Amsterdam, published by Willem Jansz Blaeu, 1611. BM no. 1917,0609.41. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 11

Fig 12. Design for a section of the border of a basin. Pen and brown ink. Incorporating the Royal Arms of James i. BM no. 1917,0609.1. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 12

Fig 13. Design for a lobe of the fig 12 basin or its accompanying ewer, probably the former. Pen and brown ink. BM no. 1917,0609.2. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 13

Fig 14. Design for a knife. Pen and brown ink. Incorporating a closed imperial crown and the Prince of Wales’s feathers. BM no. 1917,0609.3. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 14

Fig 15. Design for two sconces. Pen and brown ink and grey wash, and graphite. The lower sconce incorporating a lion’s head and a state crown. BM no. 1917,0609.13. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 15

Fig 16. Plate 28, dated 1599, from Gabriel Krammer, Architectura, Prague, 1606 (first edition Prague, 1600). V&A, National Art Library 389,1891. Photograph: The author.

Figure 16

Fig 17. Design for a basin. Above a greyhound, probably for the earldom of Richmond. Pen and grey ink and grey and brown wash. BM no. 1917,0609. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 17

Fig 18. Design for a standing cup, grotesque ornament and a jewel with conjoined hearts BM no. 1917,0609.9. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 18

Fig 19. Design for a ewer. Graphite. BM no. 1917,0609.7. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 19

Fig 20. Design for a cup, its bowl gadrooned, its base facetted. Pen and brown ink. BM no. 1917,0609.15. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 20

Fig 21. Design for a cup and cover, of lobed form, the bowl with a central blank shield. Graphite. BM no. 1917,0609.16. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 21

Fig 22. Rubbing of part of a ‘brautbecher’, a reversible wedding cup in the form of a richly dressed woman. Rubbing, graphite and pen and black ink. BM no. 1917,0609.6. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 22

Fig 23. Paul Flindt, design for a ‘brautbecher’ from a suite of forty designs for goldsmiths’ work. Dotted manner engraving, Nuremberg, 1594. V&A no. E.2678-1910. Image: © V&A.

Figure 23

Fig 24. Rubbing, probably from a silver bookbinding. Graphite. BM no. 1917,0609.17. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 24

Fig 25. Fortune. Graphite. BM no. 1917,0609.12. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 25

Fig 26. Germanic heraldry, two female figures (one Minerva?), and a strapwork cartouche. Pen and black ink, and grey and brown wash. BM no. 1917,0609.19. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 26

Fig 27. Design for a section of the border of a basin, with scenes depicting Daedalus and Icarus and Hero and Leander (?), and the initials ‘R H’. Pen and grey ink and wash. BM no. 1917,0609.18. Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 27

Fig 28. Putto playing a harp, striding woman (note the offset, round her head, of the graphite lion on BM no. 1917,0609,11), and strapwork crestings. Graphite and pen and brown ink with grey wash. BM no. 1917,0609.10 (verso). Photograph: The author.

Figure 28

Fig 29. Sketches of hands, two house plans/perspectives, plausibly related to Wothorpe, and the arms of Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter. Graphite. BM no. 1917, 0609.10 (recto). Image: © The Trustees of the BM.

Figure 29

Fig 30. Design for the City of Coventry Cup, gold, to be presented, with £100 in it, to James i on 2 September 1617 (it cost £172, including engraving and case). An annotation asks whether there is to be a cross on top and whether the king’s arms are to be engraved in all the shields shown in the drawing. Pen and ink and wash. Height 31cm, width 29cm. Coventry Archives no. BA/H/17/A79/317. Image: Courtesy of Coventry Archives.