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Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

T. T. JANSSEN
Affiliation:
Environmental Fluid Mechanics, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, 2628 CN, Delft, The Netherlands
T. H. C. HERBERS
Affiliation:
Department of Oceanography, Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, CA 93943, USA
J. A. BATTJES
Affiliation:
Environmental Fluid Mechanics, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, 2628 CN, Delft, The Netherlands
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Abstract

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Evolution equations are derived for weakly nonlinear, multi-frequency and directional surface gravity waves propagating from deep to shallow water over weakly two-dimensional bottom topography. A uniform transition from cubic resonances in deep–intermediate water (Stokes regime) to quadratic near resonances in shallow water (Boussinesq regime) is obtained by extending the ordered solution to include additional higher-order terms for the bound wave components. The model assumes a leading-order, alongshore-uniform bottom with a two-dimensional depth perturbation that is incorporated through a Taylor series expansion of the bottom boundary condition. Numerical implementations of the model and comparisons to experimental data are presented that demonstrate the model's ability to describe: (i) cubic wave–wave interactions in deep–intermediate water depth; (ii) harmonic generation over a one-dimensional submerged obstacle; (iii) harmonic generation over two-dimensional topography.

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Papers
Copyright
© 2006 Cambridge University Press