Hostname: page-component-7b7567c8c-7pwfn Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2026-11-15T09:14:52.591Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Universality of sea wave growth and its physical roots

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  07 September 2015

Vladimir E. Zakharov
Affiliation:
University of Arizona, Tuscon, AZ, USALaboratory of Nonlinear Wave Processes, Novosibirsk State University, RussiaP.N. Lebedev Physical Institute of Russian Academy of Sciences, Russia
Sergei I. Badulin*
Affiliation:
Laboratory of Nonlinear Wave Processes, Novosibirsk State University, RussiaP.P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences, Moscow, Russia
Paul A. Hwang
Affiliation:
Remote Sensing Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, DC, USA
Guillemette Caulliez
Affiliation:
Aix-Marseille Université, Université de Toulon, CNRS/INSU, IRD, MIO, UM 110, 13288, Marseille, CEDEX 09, France
*
†Email address for correspondence: badulin@ioran.ru

Abstract

Assuming resonant nonlinear wave interactions to be the dominant physical mechanism of growing wind-driven seas we propose a concise relationship between instantaneous wave steepness and time or fetch of wave development expressed in dimensionless wave periods or lengths. This asymptotic physical law derived from the first principles of the theory of weak turbulence does not contain wind speed explicitly. The validity of this law is illustrated by results of numerical simulations, in situ measurements of growing wind seas and wind-wave tank observations. The impact of this new view of sea-wave physics is discussed in the context of conventional approaches to wave modelling and forecasting.

Information

Type
Papers
Copyright
© 2015 Cambridge University Press 
Figure 0

Figure 1.Dependence of frequency downshift exponent $q$ on energy growth exponent $p$ for duration- and fetch-limited setups for experimental fits by Hwang & Wang (2004) (symbols), the theory of this paper (solid and dashed lines) and the theory of Hasselmann et al. (1976) (dash-dotted line).

Figure 1

Figure 2.Dependence of parameter ${\it\alpha}_{0}=({\it\mu}^{4}{\it\nu})^{1/3}$ (1.4) on: (a) non-dimensional duration ${\it\tau}=tg/U_{10}$ and (b) inverse wave age ${\it\sigma}={\it\omega}_{p}U_{10}/g$ in simulations of duration-limited wind wave growth by Badulin et al. (2002, 2005, 2007b, 2008). Simulation setups (wind input parameterization and wind speed, e.g. table 6 of Badulin et al.2005 for details) are given in the legend. The horizontal dotted line shows theoretical value ${\it\alpha}_{0(d)}=0.7$.

Figure 2

Figure 3.Wave growth curves in simulations of the fetch-limited setup (Zakharov et al.2012) with: (a) fetch scaling (3.1) and (b) duration scaling (3.2). Curves are given for fixed fetches 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 km (see legends). Theoretical dependences (3.7) and (3.8) are shown by dotted lines.

Figure 3

Figure 4.Dependence of experimental estimate of self-similarity parameter ${\it\alpha}_{0}$: (a) on non-dimensional fetch ${\it\chi}=xg/U_{10}^{2}$ and duration ${\it\tau}=tg/U_{10}$; (b) on non-dimensional frequency of spectral peak ${\it\sigma}={\it\omega}_{p}U_{10}/g$, for a combined collection of duration- and fetch-limited datasets. The dashed line shows the theoretical value ${\it\alpha}_{0(f)}=0.62$, the solid line is the empirical power-law fit (5.8) by Hwang & Wang (2004) for the collection.

Figure 4

Figure 5.Data by Sverdrup & Munk (1947): (a,b) wave height–period dependence with the conventional wind speed scaling; (c,d) $\tilde{H}(\tilde{T})$ scaled by fetch (c) or time (d); (e,f) estimates of invariants ${\it\alpha}_{0(f)}$ and ${\it\alpha}_{0(d)}$. The dotted lines in (a–d) show the Toba (1972) law, and the dashed lines in (e,f) our theoretical values of ${\it\alpha}_{0(f)}$ and ${\it\alpha}_{0(d)}$. ID in (e,f) corresponds to records’ ID in tables of Sverdrup & Munk (1947). (a,c,e) Data of table II for fetch-limited cases; (b,d,f) data of table III for duration-limited cases. Names of observation ship and authors are given in the legends of (a,b).

Figure 5

Table 1.Summary of wave rider data of the Field Research Facility of the US Army Corps of Engineers. Wave direction is reported as the direction from which the waves originate, e.g. waves coming from the west have direction $270^{\circ }$.

Figure 6

Figure 6.Data of Field Research Facility wave riders versus theoretical dependence (3.8) shown as dotted line. Different buoy data are shown by different symbols (see legend and table 1).

Figure 7

Figure 7.Data of wind-wave tank studies of wave growth by Toba (1972) (filled symbols) and by Caulliez (2013) (open symbols) made dimensionless by using the gravity parameter $g$ and the conventional friction velocity $u^{\ast }=\langle U^{\prime }W^{\prime }\rangle ^{1/2}$ ($T^{\ast }=gT/u^{\ast }$ and $H^{\ast }=gH_{s}/{u^{\ast }}^{2}$). (a) Toba’s data derived from table 1 in Toba (1972); (b) friction velocity values $u^{\ast }$ given in Toba (1972) are replaced by estimates at the same reference wind speed and fetch made on the basis of the Caulliez measurements in the large Marseille wind wave tank. Solid line is the Toba (1972) $3/2$ law.

Figure 8

Figure 8.Data derived from wind-wave tank studies of wave growth by Toba (1972) (filled symbols) and by Caulliez (2013) (open symbols) plotted in terms of the new scaling (3.1). Solid line is the Toba (1972) $3/2$ law.