Nature’s Brew: A Summary
Modern beer is weird. I’m not just talking about a funky dill pickle sour, a chocolate peanut butter milkshake stout, or a bourbon-barrel aged maple amber ale. Many craft beer enthusiasts would consider those beers intriguing, if not a little strange. Despite the variety of beer now available to consumers, however, even a can of everyday lager, like Budweiser, Coors Banquet, or Miller Lite, is a historical abnormality.
Humans have been brewing beer for at least 10,000 years, but brewing has changed dramatically in the last 200 years.Footnote 1 For thousands of years, brewing was carried out primarily by women using local grains, herbs, fruits, and open-air fermentation.Footnote 2 Most of the beer was relatively low in alcohol and destined for household consumption.Footnote 3 Only in the last two centuries has the modern brewing industry taken shape. By “modern,” I mean an industry that relies on intensive capital inputs, standardized products and brands, marketing, global distribution networks, disposable packaging, and scientific expertise. Even today’s craft brewers—who often pride themselves on their experimental brews and local or regional connections—are a product of this transformation.
Nature’s Brew asks how this radically different brewing industry emerged in the United States.Footnote 4 The dissertation’s exploration of modern beer begins in the 1850s—with the rising popularity of lager beer in American drinking culture—and continues to the present day with the emergence of craft brewing. I argue that the modern beer industry took shape because of the unique biological and material properties of beer’s organic and chemical components (yeast, hops, barley, and alcohol). Of course, humans and the business and political systems they create are also vital to this story. Yet, without human entanglements with things like yeast, hops, alcohol, barley, coal, pesticides, cans, and bottles, the transition to large-scale industrial brewing, or even modern craft brewing—which are often not as distinct as craft brewers insist—would not have been possible.Footnote 5
Through this more-than-human approach, the dissertation highlights the role non-humans played in creating the modern $100 billion brewing industry. In doing so, it offers a history of American beer radically different from past scholarship on brewing. Previous scholars have focused intensely on the history of individual brewing corporations, the “great men” behind them, or beer’s political, economic, and social aspects.Footnote 6 My dissertation is the first history of brewing that tells the story of American beer through the stuff found in a pint glass.
The dissertation shows how non-human agents significantly shaped the actions of individual brewers, brewing corporations, and the economy at large. For example, the yeast needed to make lager, the most popular style of beer globally, requires cold temperatures. As a result, brewers became critical early investors in artificial refrigeration during the nineteenth century.Footnote 7 Thus, because of lager yeast’s need for cold, brewers played a vital role in creating the modern cold-chain economy. Furthermore, the fungus downy mildew is particularly adept at killing hops. Its rampage through Pacific Northwest hop yards in the 1930s resulted in growers’ reliance on synthetic pesticides and encouraged brewers’ investments in the mildew-resistant hybrid hops that would launch the craft beer revolution a half century later. Non-humans were vital in shaping brewing’s trajectory and influenced, enabled, and limited brewers’ choices at critical junctions.
My focus on more-than-human entanglements stems from a growing body of interdisciplinary scholarship stressing the importance of non-humans in creating all aspects of human society.Footnote 8 This work, broadly called “neo-materialism,” highlights the importance of matter, literally stuff, in a society that often takes it for granted. As the neo-materialist historian Tim LeCain states, our histories and cultures developed “in significant part from a broader world of intelligent and creative animals, plants, metals, and other material things,” and not solely from human “intelligence, creativity, culture, power, [and] technologies.”Footnote 9 Without human-thing partnerships, the brewing industry or large social, political, and economic systems like capitalism would not exist.
Nature’s Brew also joins a collaborative effort between business and environmental historians working to demystify the connections between corporations and environments.Footnote 10 Notable books in this vein include John Soluri’s Banana Cultures and Bart Elmore’s Citizen Coke. Both works show that the importance of supply chains and the material and social factors that underpin them, and not just firm organization or managerial strategy, play a substantial role in the history of business. This growing body of work has succinctly demonstrated that firms are voracious consumers of raw materials and therefore have significant connections to the environment.Footnote 11 Firms are rooted in nature.
This multi-disciplinary approach has driven business history in new and exciting directions. The collaboration between business historians, environmental historians, and historians of capitalism offers a critique of the Chandlerian paradigm that has dominated business history since the late 1970s. In his classic work The Visible Hand (1977), Alfred Chandler stressed that the organization of vertically integrated firms was the most critical aspect of American business. While a significant contribution, the Chandlerian paradigm ignored the importance of firms’ raw materials, the landscapes that originate them, and the connections between policy and supply chains.Footnote 12 By branching out from the Chandlerian paradigm, historians are telling compelling stories that resonate with today’s problems, particularly the significant relationship between corporations and the climate crisis.
Nature’s Brew complements this growing body of interdisciplinary scholarship but also pushes it forward. The dissertation argues that not only are firms connected to the natural world through extraction, but that they also need the agentic qualities of non-humans to co-create capitalist enterprises. The materiality of non-humans—their inherent properties, such as yeasts’ capacity to turn sugar into alcohol independent of humans or hops’ natural production of flavorful chemical compounds—mattered in the making of capitalism.
This neo-materialist approach allows us to see the creation of modern capitalism from a unique perspective, the micro-level. Instead of viewing capitalism through a global lens, placing non-human agents under a historical microscope allows us to study capitalism from the perspective of truly small things, the nuts and bolts that make the system possible. Brewers’ relationships with small things ranging in size from microscopic fungi to individual grains of barley and 12-ounce aluminum cans resulted in immense changes and impacts on the brewing industry, society, and the environment.
As industrial brewers worked to control the minutiae of brewing, they required massive amounts of capital inputs and expenditures. Notable examples include multi-story coal-fired ice plants, canning machines, national marketing campaigns, and investments in scientific research. Even craft brewers, who use their relatively small size as a key marketing device, rely on the capital structures and supply chains developed by big brewers over the last two hundred years. Once we consider the material components of beer as serious historical actors in the creation of the modern brewing industry, it becomes clear that small things often have incredibly large impacts on capital development, culture, politics, and the environment.
While the dissertation focuses on brewing, this approach is not unique to beer. All modern industries depend on everyday things’ biological and chemical properties, ranging from the cotton plant’s ability to produce a workable fiber to copper atoms’ inherent conductivity and malleability.Footnote 13 If we want to better understand corporations, indeed, global capitalism, historians need to engage with the materiality of even the smallest things that make these systems possible.
This environmental and business history of beer also offers insights into how studying past connections between humans and more-than-human things can help us envision relationships that will foster a more sustainable future. Since the field’s inception, environmental historians have documented how human economic activity, primarily in the form of capitalism, ruins environments.Footnote 14 These stories have immense value. They have shown us what happens when humans take a narrow, short-sighted view of their place in the world. If we continue to exploit the Earth without a second thought about soil, climate, or other life forms, we end up with disastrous consequences.Footnote 15 Examples include the Dust Bowl, the near extinction of the American bison, the horror of modern slaughter and henhouses, the exploitation and poisoning of marginalized people worldwide, and even things like a global trade in radioactive blueberries.Footnote 16 At the same time, however, our relationships with agentic things also allow humans to accomplish some truly incredible feats. And by better understanding the history of these relationships, perhaps we can find new entanglements that offer novel solutions to our most pressing problems.
If there is one thing that studying the history of modern beer has taught me, it is that flexibility and creativity, rather than control and standardization, result in much more dynamic and adaptive solutions to problems. When brewers and consumers embraced rigid views of beer, they often experienced increased financial struggles and negative environmental impacts. Notable examples include lager brewers’ transitions from natural ice to ice machines that caused substantial urban pollution, their insistence on using legacy barley cultivars unsuited to drought during the 1930s, their determination to sell beer in single-use containers despite consumer satisfaction with returnable bottles, and their continued demand for hop varieties that must be grown with abundant pesticides. Cultivating flexibility—a willingness to experiment with new more-than-human relationships as hurdles inevitably arise—offers an antidote to the rigidity that accompanies a capitalist mindset rooted in the false notion that humans are masters of the natural world.Footnote 17
What Is in a Beer?: Organization
The dissertation uses a thematic and chronological organization to tell the story of modern American brewing. Each chapter addresses an important ingredient used to make beer, including yeast, barley, and hops. Since alcohol is also an important component of beer, it also receives its own chapter. Finally, because all these ingredients and components are frequently served to a customer encapsulated in a disposable can, beer cans receive a chapter as well.
The five thematic chapters—beginning with yeast and then moving on to alcohol, malt, cans, and hops—are arranged chronologically, with some necessary overlap. This arrangement highlights critical moments in beer’s history when more-than-human agents influenced the industry’s development. Each chapter emphasizes the importance of even the smallest components in creating a modern capitalist enterprise.
The first chapter, titled “Industrious Microbes,” begins in the 1850s and explores how new scientific research on yeast and other microorganisms contributed to the intense capitalization and standardization of the American brewing industry during the late nineteenth century. Lager yeast requires cold fermentation temperatures and hygienic environments to produce a consistent and proper-tasting lager. As a result, lager brewers became critical investors in artificial refrigeration technology by the 1870s. The massive and expensive coal-fired ice machines turned breweries into voracious consumers of fossil fuels, all to satisfy the cold-loving yeast.Footnote 18 In essence, the biological needs of the tiny lager yeast led brewers to invest in huge, capital-intensive artificial refrigeration plants if they wanted to avoid the volatility of naturally harvested ice and seasonal temperatures while also producing a standardized product. Due to their partnership with yeast, leading scientific brewers were able to create national brands and produce them on an industrial scale independent of region or weather, a feat unprecedented in human history.
“Beer Bodies,” the dissertation’s second chapter, focuses on the alcohol and carbohydrates found in a pint of beer. During the turn of the twentieth century, arguments over the impact of beer on American society and bodies reached a fevered pitch. This chapter explores the history of Prohibition through the effects of ethyl alcohol and carbs on the micro-environment of the human organism.Footnote 19 The ability of microscopic components found in beer to alter human behavior and physiology shaped the national rhetorical strategies of brewers and their dry antagonists, such as the Anti-Saloon League and Women’s Christian Temperance Union. Both camps enlisted allied scientists and dietary specialists in their battles over temperance, and each group of specialists offered competing views of the impact of beer on the body. This chapter argues that the ethyl alcohol and carbohydrates in beer need to be viewed as active historical agents in both shaping prohibitory policy and the marketing and political campaigns of the brewing industry, one of the nation’s largest, both before and after Prohibition.Footnote 20
The third chapter, “A Different Kind of Dry,” explores the impacts of barley shortages on the brewing industry as it worked to reestablish itself after the repeal of Prohibition in 1933. The scorching heat and lack of rain during the 1930s were not only responsible for the infamous black blizzards of the Dust Bowl but also withered fields of malting barley used to brew beer in the upper Midwest. Throughout the 1930s, brewers struggled to secure quality malt—their primary ingredient—at profitable prices due to drought-related shortages.Footnote 21 As a result, many brewers who could not weather the double punch of reduced post-repeal demand for beer and expensive ingredients collapsed in the decade after repeal. Additionally, because of the malt shortages, brewers took a renewed interest in the procurement of their principal ingredient. As a result, the industry allocated significant funds toward grower education and new cultivar breeding that shaped the development of the modern malt growing industry in the United States. While there are several contributing factors that explain the rise of a handful of big brewers in the United States after Prohibition, this chapter is the first to argue that climate-related supply chain issues played a role in the industry’s post-repeal development.
“Selling Single-use,” the fourth chapter, evaluates the emergence of single-use beverage containers—metal cans—in the American brewing industry from the 1930s until the 1970s. In 1935, American brewers became the first in the carbonated beverage industry to implement single-use containers, pre-dating the soda industry by several decades.Footnote 22 Brewers saw cans as an opportunity to market their product as a “home beverage” by focusing on the lightweight and quick chilling aspects of the steel, and later aluminum, containers.Footnote 23 “Selling Single-use” demonstrates that consumers during the 1930s, however, initially rejected one-way containers because they were inferior to reusable glass bottles. The chapter argues instead that the use of canned beer in soldiers’ rations during WWII became the turning point in engraining single-use packaging in American consumer culture. This chapter follows the post-war adoption of canned beer into the 1970s and concludes by evaluating the environmental legacy of brewers’ promotion of disposable cans over returnable glass bottles. This history provides insights into current debates concerning the environmental costs and the liability of single-use product packaging in addition to highlighting the strengths and shortcomings of steel and aluminum as single-use beverage containers.
The dissertation concludes with a chapter on hops titled “Mites, Mildew, and Anheuser-Busch.” Today, hops are arguably the most iconic ingredient in beer thanks to the popularity of craft brewing. The final chapter explores the history of popular hop hybrids, like the Cascade and Centennial, that were imperative to the craft beer revolution that began in the late 1970s. Rather than repeating the often celebratory, counter-cultural history embraced by craft brewers—that their product is more authentic and natural and otherwise separate from big beer through their embrace of hops—this evaluation of American hop production upends that traditional narrative.Footnote 24 Instead, this chapter demonstrates that many modern hop varieties championed by craft brewers were developed in response to traditional cultivars’ susceptibility to diseases using financial assistance from federal and state governments and big brewers like Anheuser-Busch, Coors, and Schlitz. These new varieties were then grown using pesticide-intensive agricultural methods. As a result, the modern brewing industry, particularly the craft beer segment, is heavily dependent on synthetic pesticides to secure one of its key ingredients due to hops’ inherent vulnerability to downy mildew infection. Indeed, so many chemicals are used that several studies have found that hop pesticide residues carry over into a consumer’s pint glass.Footnote 25
Nature’s Brew teaches us about the microorganisms, chemicals, metals, plants, policies, and people that shaped the American brewing industry. Their histories illustrate that a pint of our favorite brew contains much more than beer. Indeed, when we consume a can of beer, we drink a living beverage with both deep connections to and significant impacts on our economies, environments, and bodies.