Hostname: page-component-74656f9884-j7cmm Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2026-11-09T02:48:50.134Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

FIBER TECHNOLOGY AND WEAVING IN FORMATIVE-PERIOD GULF COAST CULTURES

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  11 April 2008

Billie J. A. Follensbee*
Affiliation:
Department of Art and Design, Missouri State University, Ellis Hall, Room 203A, 901 South National Avenue, Springfield, MO 65897, USA
*
E-mail correspondence to:BillieFollensbee@missouristate.edu
Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

While research has revealed the important role that textiles have played in Mesoamerica from the Classic period through contemporary cultures, few studies have explored the importance of textiles in earlier Mesoamerican cultures. Scant preservation thwarts research on Formative-period cultures such as the Gulf Coast Olmec, for which only a few fragments of cordage and woven mats have yet been recovered. However, considerable additional evidence of textiles is available through other material culture, such as the rich pictorial record of fibers and cloth shown in Olmec sculpture. Further evidence exists in textile-related ceramic artifacts recovered from Gulf Coast sites, and still more evidence can be found through the reevaluation of greenstone artifacts recovered from Gulf Coast sites and “heirloom caches” of Formative-period objects. Careful analysis of the form and iconography of certain types of provenienced greenstone artifacts reveals that these may have served as elite textile-making tools; replication studies confirms their functionality as implements for spinning, weaving, and making cordage. All together, this study suggests that the Gulf Coast Olmec already held not only textiles but textile making in high esteem during the Formative period, foreshadowing the great significance of textiles in later Mesoamerican cultures.

Information

Type
Special Section: Recent Archaeological Research on Mesoamerican Textile Production
Copyright
Copyright ©Cambridge University Press 2008
Figure 0

Table 1. Gulf Coast Olmec monumental sculpture in-the-round: Anthropomorphic images with textile depictions

Figure 1

Table 2. Gulf Coast Olmec monumental relief sculpture: Anthropomorphic images with textile depictions

Figure 2

Figure 1. Loma del Zapote Monument 11, also known as the Ejido de Xochiltepec torso, a large stone figure of a female adolescent wearing a spoon as a pectoral. Drawing by the author.

Figure 3

Figure 2. Reproduction of a hand-formed ceramic spindle whorl found at La Venta. Reproduction by the author; Drucker et al. (1959:245, Plate 61).

Figure 4

Table 3. Provenienced artifacts: Greenstone picks

Figure 5

Figure 3. Reproductions of provenienced greenstone picks: (a) pick found in Tomb A (Basalt Log Tomb), Mound A-2, La Venta, with point reconstructed (Drucker 1952:26, 169, Plate 53, right, b); (b) pick found in Tomb B, inside Monument 6 (Sandstone Coffer), Mound A-2, La Venta (Drucker 1952:27, 169, Plate 53, right, a). This pick is unique in that its elongated, rectangular handle flattens into a blade. The pick is effective as a weaving awl, while the flattened end serves well as a short batten, creating an efficient, two-ended weaving tool; (c) pick found in Tomb C (Sandstone Cist), Mound A-3, La Venta, with point reconstructed (Drucker 1952:68–71, 169, Plates 52–53, right, c); (d) pick handle found during general digging in Complex A, La Venta (Drucker et al. 1959:192–194, Figure 53e), with points modeled on reground pick points found at Cerro de las Mesas (Drucker 1955:Plate 50c–d). All reproductions by the author.

Figure 6

Figure 4. Reproduction of Princeton University Art Museum Collection Number L.1989.109.16, an unprovenienced pick in the form of a stylized hummingbird, with point reconstructed. Reproduction by the author.

Figure 7

Figure 5. Laguna de los Cerros Monument 6, a large stone figure of an elderly woman that wears two stylized hummingbird-type picks as pendant ornaments. Drawing by the author.

Figure 8

Figure 6. The Shook Panel, a large stone monument recovered from San Antonio Suchitepequez, Guatemala, that illustrates two relief images: a central female figure wearing a spoon pectoral, and an encircling male “acrobat” figure. Drawing by the author, after Shook and Heizer (1976:Figure 1).

Figure 9

Table 4. Provenienced artifacts: Greenstone “spoons”

Figure 10

Figure 7. Reproductions of greenstone “spoons”: (a) Chacsinkin Jade 6, reconstructed (Andrews 1986:21, Figures 1, 6a); (b) Chacsinkin Jade 20, tail slightly reconstructed (Andrews 1986:21, Figures 1, 6a); (c) Cleveland Museum of Art Collection Number 856.1994, an unprovenienced spoon (Benson and de la Fuente 1996:255). All reproductions by the author.

Figure 11

Figure 8. Reproduction of Chacsinkin Jade 6 spoon held as a functional weaving batten: (a) held using the bowl as a thumb grip, the blade is flat; (b) held with the first two fingers in the bowl and the third finger in the tip, the blade is upright. Reproduction by the author.

Figure 12

Figure 9. Tiny jade pick and spoon effigy ornaments found in La Venta graves and deposits. Drawings by the author, after Drucker (1952:Plate 58), Drucker et al. (1959:Plate 28).

Figure 13

Figure 10. Reproduction of the small, fluted jade pectoral ornament from Tomb D, La Venta. Reproduction by the author; see Drucker (1952:72–73, Figure 23, Plates 15 and 54).

Figure 14

Figure 11. Reproduction of the oval jade plaque found in the cache at Cerro de las Mesas. Reproduction by the author; see Drucker (1955:63–64, Plate 39).

Figure 15

Figure 12. Diagram and reproduction of a rectangular plaque found in the cache at Cerro de las Mesas. Reproduction by the author, drawing by the author after Drucker (1955:Figure 9); see also Drucker (1955:63–64, Plate 39).

Figure 16

Figure 13. (a) The author spins a cotton-and-fur blend using a reproduction of a ceramic whorl found at La Venta; (b) the author spins cotton using a reproduction of the jade pectoral ornament whorl from La Venta. Reproductions by the author.

Figure 17

Figure 14. The author uses a reproduction of a pick from La Venta while weaving a variety of different fibers that were spun using the La Venta whorl reproductions. Reproductions by the author.

Figure 18

Figure 15. The author uses a reproduction of the Chacsinkin Jade 20 spoon as a batten while weaving a variety of different fibers that were spun using the La Venta whorl reproductions. Reproductions by the author.

Figure 19

Figure 16. The author uses a reproduction of the oval jade plaque from Cerro de las Mesas to make fine cordage. Reproductions by the author.

Figure 20

Figure 17. The author uses a reproduction of a rectangular plaque from Cerro de las Mesas to two-ply fine cordage. Reproductions by the author.