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Pots across the Pacific: Tracing Transnational Chinese Migrant Foodways from Guangdong to California

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 September 2026

Jiajing Wang*
Affiliation:
Department of Anthropology, Dartmouth College, Hanover, NH, USA
Laura W. Ng
Affiliation:
Anthropology Department, Grinnell College, Grinnell, IA, USA
Barbara L. Voss
Affiliation:
Department of Anthropology, Stanford University, Stanford, CA, USA
Jinhua (Selia) Tan
Affiliation:
Institute of Overseas Chinese and Area Studies, Wuyi University, Jiangmen, GD, China
*
Corresponding author: Jiajing Wang; Email: jiajing.wang@dartmouth.edu
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Abstract

Migration involves not only the movement of people but also the circulation of ideas, capital, and material culture across space and time. In research about the Chinese diaspora, material continuity—especially the presence of objects from China—is often interpreted as evidence of cultural continuity. This study challenges that assumption through an analysis of Chinese brown-glazed stoneware recovered from a home village in Guangdong and diaspora settlements in California. Through microfossil residue analysis, the study reveals that in their home village, residents primarily relied on subtropical plants, such as rice, palms, bamboo, and banana trees, that were cultivated or gathered in agrarian landscapes. In contrast, migrants in California used more starchy grains, including rice, millets, corn, wheat, and oats, reflecting their adaptation to new ecological conditions and local markets. This transnational, multi-sited approach demonstrates that Chinese communities, both in their homeland and abroad, actively adapted to shifting environments and material conditions. Rather than rigidly adhering to a Chinese tradition, migrants navigated precarity and opportunity by incorporating locally available resources into their daily lives. Overall, the findings challenge assumptions that material similarity implies cultural continuity, revealing instead a more dynamic picture of adaptation and change.

摘要

摘要

人口迁徙不仅涉及人员的流动, 也包括思想、资本与物质文化在不同时间与空间中的传播。在华人离散社群研究中, 来自中国的器物等物质文化的延续, 常被视为文化连续性的直接证据。本研究以广东侨乡村落与加利福尼亚华人移民聚落中发现的褐釉炻器为案例, 对这一观点提出挑战。通过对两地陶器微植物残留遗存的分析, 我们发现, 同类陶器在不同地区的使用方式存在明显差异。在广东侨乡村落中, 居民主要利用稻米、棕榈、竹类和芭蕉科等亚热带植物资源, 这些资源多来自当地农业生产或自然采集; 相比之下, 同时期加利福尼亚的华人移民则更多使用稻米、粟类、玉米、小麦和燕麦等富含淀粉的谷物, 反映出他们对当地生态环境和市场条件的积极适应。这种跨太平洋、多地点的比较研究表明, 无论是在故乡还是海外, 华人社群都在不断适应变化中的环境与物质条件。他们并非僵化地维持所谓的 “传统”, 而是在不稳定与机遇并存的处境中, 通过利用当地资源来支持日常生活起居。总体而言, 本研究挑战了“物质相似性必然意味着文化连续性” 的考古学常见假设, 展现出一种更加动态的迁移、适应与变迁图景。

Information

Type
Article
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution and reproduction, provided the original article is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2026. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of Society for American Archaeology.
Figure 0

Figure 1. Geographic locations of Cangdong Village in Guangdong, China, and Donner Summit Camp and San Bernardino Chinatown in California. (Cangdong Village photo courtesy of the Cangdong Village Project; San Bernardino Chinatown photo courtesy of the San Bernardino Historical Society; Donner Pass Summit Camp photo courtesy of the Donner Summit Historical Society). (Color online)Figure 1 long description.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Ceramic samples analyzed for microfossil residues from Cangdong Village Project (CVP), San Bernardino Chinatown (SB), and Donner Summit Camp (DS). (Color online)

Figure 2

Table 1. Microfossil Ceramic Residue Data from Cangdong Village Project (CVP).Table 1 long description.

Figure 3

Table 2. Microfossil Ceramic Residue Data from San Bernardino Chinatown (SB) and Donner Pass Summit Camp (DS).Table 2 long description.

Figure 4

Figure 3. Microfossils from Cangdong Village ceramic residues: (1) double peak (rice husk); (2) Oryza bulliform (rice leaf); (3) scooped phytolith (rice leaf); (4) small globular echinate (palm); (5) large globular echinate (palm); (6) Phragmites bulliform (reed leaf); (7) Bambusoideae bulliforms (bamboo leaf); (8) oblong concave saddle (bamboo leaf); (9) volcaniform (Musa sp.); (10) tabular conical (sedge); (11) phytolith and microcharcoal; (12) calcium oxalate crystal (scale bar: 20 µm).

Figure 5

Figure 4. Microfossils from San Bernardino Chinatown and Donner Summit Camp ceramic residues; (1) double-peak phytolith (rice husk); (2) dendriform phytolith (cf. Triticum sp.); (3,) type-1 cross phytolith; (4) cf. wavy-top rondel; (5) interdigitate-type phytolith (Panicoideae inflorescence); (6) Asteraceae platelet phytolith; (7) rice starch; (8) Triticeae (cf. wheat) starch; (9) maize starch; (10) Avena sp. (cf. oat) starch; (11 and 12) Gomphonema diatoms (scale bar: 20 µm). (Color online)