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Steady water waves with arbitrary surface pressure: their recovery from bottom-pressure measurements

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2024

Didier Clamond*
Affiliation:
Université Côte d'Azur, CNRS UMR 7351, Laboratoire J. A. Dieudonné, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice cedex 2, France
Joris Labarbe
Affiliation:
Université Côte d'Azur, CNRS UMR 7351, Laboratoire J. A. Dieudonné, Parc Valrose, 06108 Nice cedex 2, France
*
†Email address for correspondence: didierc@unice.fr

Abstract

Equations relating the pressure at a horizontal seabed, the free-surface profile and the surface pressure are derived for two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves with arbitrary pressure at the free surface. Special cases include gravity, capillary, flexural and wind waves. Without approximations, we show that the free-surface recovery from the bottom pressure requires the resolution of only one first-order ordinary differential equation independent of the surface pressure, thus providing a new general recovery method valid for a broad class of water waves. Another equation provides an explicit expression for the surface pressure as a function of the bottom pressure and of the free surface. Thus, if unknown, the surface pressure can also be recovered if one extra measurement is available. This new recovery procedure is illustrated analytically for the linear approximation of a flexural–capillary–gravity wave, and numerically for fully nonlinear capillary–gravity waves.

Information

Type
JFM Rapids
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2024. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. Recovery of a nonlinear capillary–gravity wave with period $L = 6{\rm \pi} d$, Froude number square $B/(gd)=1.01568$ and Bond number $\tau /(gd^2)=1/3$. (a) Bottom pressure treated as a ‘measurement’ for the recovery procedure. (b,c) Respectively, recovered surface pressure and profile (blue circles) vs the exact solution (red line).

Figure 1

Figure 2. Same panels as figure 1 for the period $L/d=2{\rm \pi}$, the Froude number square $B/(gd)=2.28113$ and the Bond number $\tau /(gd^2)=2$.