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Bidirectional shallow-water wave turbulence

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  31 July 2026

Ashleigh Simonis*
Affiliation:
Department of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, University of Michigan, 2600 Draper Drive, Ann Arbor, MI 48109, USA
Sergey Nazarenko
Affiliation:
Institut de Physique de Nice, Université Côte d’Azur et CNRS, 17 rue Julien Lauprêtre, 06200 Nice, France
Jalal Shatah
Affiliation:
Courant Institute of Mathematical Sciences, New York University, 251 Mercer Street, New York, NY 10012, USA
Yulin Pan*
Affiliation:
Department of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, University of Michigan, 2600 Draper Drive, Ann Arbor, MI 48109, USA
*
Corresponding authors: Ashleigh Simonis, asimonis@umich.edu; Yulin Pan, yulinpan@umich.edu
Corresponding authors: Ashleigh Simonis, asimonis@umich.edu; Yulin Pan, yulinpan@umich.edu

Abstract

Content of image described in text.

We study bidirectional one-dimensional (1-D) shallow-water waves within a class of Boussinesq equations, including the integrable Kaup–Boussinesq (KB) equation and a truncated-dispersion variant, which serves as a representative non-integrable model. For these two systems, the normal-form transformation yields an interaction coefficient of the same general structure, differing only through the dispersion relation. We derive this coefficient and numerically confirm that it vanishes on the resonant manifold for the KB equation, as expected from integrability. In contrast, the non-integrable model admits a non-vanishing interaction coefficient consistent with broken integrability, producing a non-trivial wave kinetic equation (WKE), which is the first known in a 1-D shallow-water setting. The resulting WKE is non-homogeneous in nature due to the non-homogeneity of the corresponding dispersion relation; however, approximate Kolmogorov–Zakharov solutions can be derived in a novel way under certain approximations. Numerical experiments in two settings validate the kinetic predictions and elucidate the underlying dynamics: (i) in free-evolution cases of the KB equation, despite complete integrability and the invariance of the discrete nonlinear spectrum guaranteed by isospectrality, an initial arbitrary wavenumber spectrum undergoes substantial evolution driven by quasi-resonant triad interactions and (ii) in forced-dissipated cases of the non-integrable equation, we find stationary power-law spectra that agree with the theoretical predictions.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution and reproduction, provided the original article is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2026. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Table 1. Values of the interaction coefficient Tk123$T_{k123}$ for the KB equation using β=0.001$\beta =0.001$ for different resonant quartets.Table 1 long description.

Figure 1

Figure 1. Initial (solid grey) and stationary (solid blue) spectra at t=0$t=0$ and t=2×106Tp$t=2\times 10^6T_p$ for the free-evolution case with α=β=0.2$\alpha =\beta =0.2$. The RJ scaling is marked (dashed black line).

Figure 2

Figure 2. The spectrum of discrete eigenvalues ζ$\zeta$ (blue and grey points) obtained via DST at (a)$(a)$t=0$t=0$ and (b)$(b)$t≈2×106Tp$t\approx 2\times 10^6 T_p$, corresponding to the times of initial and stationary spectra in figure 1. The lower half E$E$ plane (i.e. where Im[E(ζ)]<0$\text{Im}[E(\zeta )]\lt 0$) is marked by the red hatched region and the continuous-spectrum region (i.e. where Im[E(ζ)]=0$\text{Im}[E(\zeta )]=0$) is marked by the dashed black line.

Figure 3

Figure 3. The initial spectrum (solid grey) and stationary spectra with α=0.2$\alpha =0.2$ (dashed red), α=0.04$\alpha =0.04$ (dash-dot blue) and α=0.02$\alpha =0.02$ (solid green), respectively taken at 5×105Tp$5\times 10^5T_p$, 8×105Tp$8\times 10^5T_p$ and 1.2×106Tp$1.2\times 10^6T_p$. The RJ scaling is marked (dashed black).

Figure 4

Figure 4. Figure 4 long description.Bi-coherence B(κ,κ1)$B(\kappa ,\kappa _1)$ for (a,c)$(a{,}c)$α=0.2$\alpha =0.2$ and (b,d)$(b{,}d)$α=0.02$\alpha =0.02$. Panels (a,b) show the full bi-coherence distribution, while panels (c,d) highlight the corresponding quasi-resonant regions. The solid white line marks the frequency-mismatch threshold Δω=0.08$\Delta \omega =0.08$ for α=0.2$\alpha =0.2$ and Δω=0.025$\Delta \omega =0.025$ for α=0.02$\alpha =0.02$, chosen such that the region enclosed (white dots) accounts for 80 % of the total bi-coherence.

Figure 5

Figure 5. The k$k$–ω$\omega$ spectra Sη(k,ω)$S_{\eta }(k,\omega )$ for (a)$(a)$α=0.2$\alpha =0.2$ and (b)$(b)$α=0.02$\alpha =0.02$. The KB dispersion relation (2.8) is denoted by the dashed red line and the soliton dispersion relation (for the most dominant bound state) is marked by the dashed black line in (a)$(a)$.

Figure 6

Figure 6. Figure 6 long description.Stationary wave action spectra for the truncated-dispersion system (a,b)$(a{,}b)$ and the full KB system (c,d)$(c{,}d)$. (a,c) Case A with theoretical scaling nκ∼κ−3$n_\kappa \sim \kappa ^{-3}$. (b,d) Case B with theoretical scaling nκ∼κ−3/2$n_\kappa \sim \kappa ^{-3/2}$. The forcing range is indicated by the dotted red lines, and the corresponding theoretical scalings are marked by the dashed black lines.

Figure 7

Figure 7. Interaction coefficient Tk123$T_{k123}$ for β=0.001$\beta =0.001$, k=5.0$k=5.0$, restricted to |Δω|⩽2$|\Delta \omega |\leqslant 2$ near the KB resonant manifold. The dotted black lines mark Δω=0$\Delta \omega =0$ curves: the curved branch is the KB resonant manifold, while the diagonal and horizontal branches correspond to trivial resonances. The inset shows a cross-section taken along the dashed red line, illustrating the behaviour of the coefficient across the resonant manifold.

Figure 8

Figure 8. Interaction coefficients Tk123$T_{k123}$ for β=0.001$\beta =0.001$, k=1.5$k=1.5$ and k2=3.25$k_2=3.25$, evaluated using the KB dispersion relation (solid blue) and truncated dispersion relations with O(β3)$O(\beta ^3)$ corrections (dotted orange), O(β2)$O(\beta ^2)$ corrections (dashed green) and O(β)$O(\beta )$ corrections (dash-dotted purple). Also shown are the analytical coefficient (2.27a) (dashed red), the KB resonant manifold (dotted black) and the contour |Δω|=0.01$|\Delta \omega |=0.01$ (dotted cyan). The inset magnifies the behaviour near the resonant manifold.

Figure 9

Figure 9. A sketch of the spectrum under consideration, with finite bandwidth Δ$\varDelta$.

Figure 10

Figure 10. Graphical illustration of the resonant condition: (a)$(a)$ the case where all wavenumbers are positive; (b)$(b)$ the case where one wavenumber (say k4$k_4$) is negative and the others are positive.

Figure 11

Figure 11. Graphical illustration of the spurious resonant conditions: (a)$(a)$ the case where all wavenumbers are O(β−1/2)$O(\beta ^{-1/2})$; (b)$(b)$ the case where two wavenumbers are O(1)$O(1)$ and the other two are O(β−1/2)$O(\beta ^{-1/2})$.

Figure 12

Figure 12. (a)$(a)$ The initial (solid grey) and stationary (solid blue) spectra at t=0$t=0$ and t≈4×105Tp$t\approx 4\times 10^5T_p$ for the free-evolution case with α=β=4×10−5$\alpha =\beta =4\times 10^{-5}$. The RJ scaling is marked (dashed black line). (b)$(b)$ The k$k$–ω$\omega$ spectrum corresponding to the wavenumber range following the RJ scaling. The KB dispersion relation (2.8) is indicated by the dashed red line.

Figure 13

Figure 13. The spectrum nk∝|ηk|2/ωk$n_k\propto |\eta _k|^2/\omega _k$ at the initial (solid grey) and stationary state for KB (solid green) and KdV (red) for (a)$(a)$α=0.2$\alpha =0.2$ taken at 5×105Tp$5\times 10^5T_p$ and (b)$(b)$α=0.02$\alpha =0.02$ taken at 1.2×106Tp$1.2\times 10^6T_p$. The RJ scaling is marked (dashed black).

Figure 14

Figure 14. Comparison of the numerical (solid blue) and analytical (dashed red) solutions for (a)$(a)$ surface elevation and (b)$(b)$ velocity for the linear portion of the KB system at t=10Tp$t=10T_p$.

Figure 15

Figure 15. Comparison of the numerical (solid blue) and analytical (dashed red) solutions for (a)$(a)$ surface elevation and (b)$(b)$ velocity for the full KB system at t=2τs$t=2\tau _s$.

Figure 16

Figure 16. Total momentum P$P$ (green line) and energy H$H$ (orange line) plotted at each time step over the duration of 2τs$2\tau _s$ for the full KB system.

Figure 17

Figure 17. Comparison of the numerical (solid blue) and analytical (red dashed line) solutions for surface elevation for the linear portion of the KdV equation at t=10Tp$t=10T_p$.

Figure 18

Figure 18. Comparison of the numerical (solid blue) and analytical (dashed red) solutions for surface elevation for the full KdV equation at t=2τs$t=2\tau _s$.

Figure 19

Figure 19. Total momentum P$P$ (green line) and energy H$H$ (orange line) plotted at each time step over the duration of 2τs$2\tau _s$ for the full KdV equation.