Cannibalism follows cacao in the Archaeology of Food: an encycopedia, a food-centric eclectic work encapsulating the current scientific knowledge and theoretical perspective of each of its 284 entries. An encyclopedia requires good indexing and this two-volume set excels, with not just alphabetical but also thematic contents. Themes include ‘Beverages’ and ‘Methods of analysis’, which complement the publication’s alphabetical layout by providing a comprehensive list of entries within a chosen area of interest. Indexes are included in both volumes, a convenient feature. Entries fall into two categories: broad and specific. A longer entry containing subsections, a subject with a broad context such as ‘Old World Globalisation and Food Exchange’, includes different eras, diverse cultures and various plant and animal components as well as a conclusion. Specific entries focusing on one element of food culture such as ‘Mesolithic Diet’ or ‘Fungi’ provide narrow-focused and detailed information on the topic. Both types of entry provide a comprehensive further reading list which is essential considering the necessary succinctness of the articles.
‘Food and Capitalism’ is a broad-focus entry, which, while acknowledging that the subject is market-driven, contains a study of the eighteenth century onwards. New World staples such as maize and potatoes are considered, and the colonial trade in tea is covered in detail. However, the association of food and burgeoning capitalism is evident in the late medieval period as expanding urban centres outsourced for food. The archaeology carried out in 2013 of a c 200m commercial fish weir in Medmerry, West Sussex, is the latest find to illustrate that food production on a commercial scale grew to meet market needs as the populations of towns reached 20,000.
The entry for ‘Famine’ is well nourished with up-to-date and pertinent information. This agent of socio-economic change dates back to humanity’s dependence upon agriculture. Crop failure, over-population, drought and political conflict are given as causes, which link to an entry for ‘Multi and Inter Disciplinary Approaches’. Recent bioarchaeological research that explores the induced skeletal stress of survivors as well as the victims of famine is mentioned. Physiological responses to famine and its study through isotope analysis is explained, with further reading of a 2013 study of mid-eighteenth-century Irish victims suggested. This is a particularly good example of how beneficial the encyclopedia can be when the contributor includes recent research. Additionally, the potential for further study is considered. Palaeodemographic analyses of skeletal populations are suggested here, which would develop further the understanding of famine and its effects in human demography in pre-modern society.
‘Salt’ is a narrow-focus entry which succinctly describes the wide variety of its uses, from food preservation to dyeing cloth, as well as the global nature and differing production methods of this commodity. Of the five primary sources of salt stated, however, solar evaporation techniques are given only a broad sweep of the contributor’s pen, typical of the space constraints that limit narrowly focused entries. Nevertheless, archaeological salt sites across four continents are listed and the further reading list reflects the global salt trade from China, South America and Austria.
Entries, and the quality of their information, vary depending on the individual author. Two hundred and thirty-six contributors, mainly from archaeological backgrounds, have supplied entries based upon their field of specialism. A number of entries are excellent, providing up-to-date research and suggesting where further study might be applied. A full and comprehensive reading list is a sumptuous feast that encompasses all aspects of the subject. Sadly, however, many entries are simply functional and provide two or three further readings that serve up little more than basic rations for an enquiring mind. Such disparity has resulted in a sadly inconsistent publication.
Archaeology of Food is interdisciplinary and will appeal to archaeologists, historians, sociologists, anthropologists and any discipline related to 40,000 years of food and its study. However, at £130 it may be prohibitively expensive to the individual students at whom it might be aimed. If relegated to a library reference book only, the question should be asked: can an internet search substitute? Encyclopedias, like dictionaries, are increasingly online resources and can be accessed free of charge. I sampled a number of entries against an internet search engine and found the publication superior in its contents, layout and reliability of information. The best online resources were, ironically, written by the encyclopedia’s contributors. These were thorough and provided much more detail than the overview contained in the publication. The information therefore is online but search with discernment, and only within academic papers.