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Focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets: wave breaking criterion in a simplified model

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  24 June 2019

Nick Pizzo*
Affiliation:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92037, USA
W. Kendall Melville
Affiliation:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92037, USA
*
†Email address for correspondence: npizzo@ucsd.edu

Abstract

Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter. The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol. 369 (1736), 1979, pp. 105–114). The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing. A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$, for $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ the linear prediction of the maximum slope at focusing and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$ the non-dimensional packet bandwidth, is proposed and numerically examined, indicating a quasi-self-similarity of these focusing events. The equations of motion for the fully nonlinear potential flow equations are then integrated to further investigate these predictions. It is found that a model of this form can characterize the bulk partitioning of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}-\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$ phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion. Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Copyright
© 2019 Cambridge University Press 
Figure 0

Figure 1.Two laboratory examples of deep-water breaking waves. (a) Laboratory data from Drazen, Melville & Lenain (2008). A dispersive focusing technique is employed to create breaking around $k_{0}(x-x_{b})=0$. The wave envelope is shown in blue, while the free surface displacement is given in black. Notice the strong asymmetry in the packet as breaking is approached. (b) The evolution of an initially uniform train of finite amplitude waves, from the laboratory experiments of Melville (1983). The initially uniform wave train experiences the Benjamin–Feir instability (Benjamin & Feir 1967), leading to large modulations to the wave amplitude and phase, eventually leading to wave breaking around $k_{0}x=251$.

Figure 1

Figure 2.The potential well given by (3.19) for $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}=\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}=0.1$ (black line) and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}=4\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}/3=0.1$ (red line). The dashed lines show the corresponding potentials for the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. Note, the red line has $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6F1}^{\prime }(w_{0}=1)<0$, implying the nonlinearity is stronger than the dispersion initially, aiding the chirp in compressing the packet, i.e. leading to smaller values of $w$.

Figure 2

Figure 3.A comparison between numerical simulations of the MNLSE and the predictions of the trial function given by (3.3). Here, $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}=\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}=0.1$. The envelope amplitude is shown in (a), where we see agreement between the trial function and the full solutions during focusing, with the agreement breaking down as the packet slope becomes large. The frequencies are shown in (b), and again the trial functions describe the bulk scale evolution of the phase but do not capture the higher $\unicode[STIX]{x1D70F}$-dependent behaviour. (c) Compares the predictions of the slope of the trial function and the MNLSE, with good agreement found for small values of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D712}$, before the approximation breaks down.

Figure 3

Figure 4.The maximum of the modulus of the slope, max$(|\unicode[STIX]{x1D702}_{x}|)$, according to the modified nonlinear Schrodinger equation (upper surface) and nonlinear Schrodinger equation (lower surface) as a function of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$. Here, 400 runs were conducted, and the displayed surfaces are interpolated based on these data points. Note, the MNLSE predicts noticeably larger slopes than its lower-order counterpart, in accordance with the theoretical considerations of § 3. Slopes are largest for large $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$ and small $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$, corresponding to larger values of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FE}_{0},\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}_{0},\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FD}_{0}$.

Figure 4

Figure 5.A comparison of the contours of max$(|\unicode[STIX]{x1D702}_{x}|)$ as a function of $(\unicode[STIX]{x1D716},\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5})$, with the model ${\mathcal{T}}$ (dashed lines) given by (3.29). There is a bulk scale agreement between this relatively simple model and the numerical simulations.

Figure 5

Figure 6.The packet evolution in the numerical simulations of the fully nonlinear potential flow equations, for $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}=0.18$ and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}=0.24$. A chirped packet uses dispersive focusing, so that longer faster waves catch up to shorter slower waves, leading to energy localization and in this case wave breaking. The free surface displacement $\unicode[STIX]{x1D702}$ is shown black, while the packet envelope is shown in red. Note the asymmetric self-steepening on the forward face of the envelope and the amplitude amplification. The inset shows the breaking event after the particle locations have been remapped, with the particle locations shown by the black dots.

Figure 6

Figure 7.(a) The particle locations in the original integration are shown in red, while the mapped particle locations are shown in black. Here, $\unicode[STIX]{x1D708}_{0}=-0.5$ in the conformal mapping given by (4.1)). The distance between adjacent particles in the original scheme (red) and the mapped coordinates (black). The resolution has been increased by nearly an order of magnitude near the steepest part of the wave using this technique.

Figure 7

Figure 8.Top: numerical simulations of various initial bandwidths, $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$, and linear predictions of the maximum slope at focusing, $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$. Red circles are wave packets with breaking, while those in black are wave packets where no breaking was observed. There is a distinct partitioning of this phase space between these two types of evolution. The model given by (4.4) is shown by the blue line, and describes the bulk scale partitioning of phase space between breaking and non-breaking waves, while the black line is a linear best to the data and the grey line shows the best fit to a quadratic polynomial in $\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$.