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Momentum, energy and vorticity balances in deep-water surface gravity waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  16 October 2024

Aidan Blaser
Affiliation:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92037, USA
Raphaël Benamran
Affiliation:
Department of Physics, Brown University, Providence, RI 02912, USA
Ana B. Villas Bôas
Affiliation:
Department of Geophysics, Colorado School of Mines, Golden, CO 80401, USA
Luc Lenain
Affiliation:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92037, USA
Nick Pizzo*
Affiliation:
Graduate School of Oceanography, University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI 02882, USA
*
†Email address for correspondence: nicholas.pizzo@uri.edu

Abstract

The particle trajectories in irrotational, incompressible and inviscid deep-water surface gravity waves are open, leading to a net drift in the direction of wave propagation commonly referred to as the Stokes drift, which is responsible for catalysing surface wave-induced mixing in the ocean and transporting marine debris. A balance between phase-averaged momentum density, kinetic energy density and vorticity for irrotational, monochromatic and spatially periodic two-dimensional water waves is derived by working directly within the Lagrangian reference frame, which tracks particle trajectories as a function of their labels and time. This balance should be expected as all three of these quantities are conserved following particles in this system. Vorticity in particular is always conserved along particles in two-dimensional inviscid flow, and as such even in its absence it is the value of the vorticity that fundamentally sets the drift, which in the Lagrangian frame is identified as the phase-averaged momentum density of the system. A relationship between the drift and the geometric mean water level of particles is found at the surface, which highlights connections between the geometry and dynamics. Finally, an example of an initially quiescent fluid driven by a wavelike pressure disturbance is considered, showing how the net momentum and energy from the surface pressure disturbance transfer to the wave field, and recognizing the source of the mean Lagrangian drift as the net momentum required to generate an irrotational surface wave by any conservative force.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution and reproduction, provided the original article is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2024. Published by Cambridge University Press.
Figure 0

Figure 1. Schematic of a potential closed material loop for periodic, progressive waves (red). The top contour is a material line of constant vertical label $\beta = \beta _0$. Because $\boldsymbol {A}$ is $\lambda$-periodic, which can be shown from (3.4), the side contours cancel. By our infinite bottom condition, $\boldsymbol {A}$ vanishes as we approach the bottom, and there are no contributions there. Note the clockwise orientation used.