Historically known as the Land of a Million Elephants, the wild Asian elephants Elephas maximus of the Lao People's Democratic Republic remain widely but patchily distributed throughout the country. There is limited information on the trade in ivory or elephant parts in the country but, strategically situated between the world's largest ivory traders, Thailand and China, the trade may be substantial. Economic ties with Thailand have traditionally been strong but in recent years Chinese economic investments in Lao have boomed and, after Thailand, China is now Lao's second largest trading partner. China, Thailand and Lao are all signatories to CITES and no international trade in elephants, their parts or their ivory is permitted. Within Thailand domestic trade in ivory obtained from domestic elephants is permitted and, under tight controls, domestic trade in labelled and registered African ivory is allowed in China. In neither country is trade in elephant parts other than ivory permitted. In Lao elephants are protected and trade in elephants, their parts or ivory is illegal; however, in general, wildlife laws are poorly enforced. Thailand's wild elephant population numbers in the thousands, and that of Lao possibly up to a thousand, but in China only a few hundred wild elephants remain. Taken together this may suggest an emerging role for Lao in the trade in ivory and elephant parts, both domestically and cross-border to China.

We have conducted a series of surveys of wildlife trade in Lao's capital Vientiane, just across the border with Thailand, most recently in August 2011. In the late 1990s to early 2000s most ivory or elephant parts were traded in the Morning Market (Telaat Sao) and a series of stalls opposite the nearby central post office. Here, during a 1-day survey in May 1999, Nooren & Claridge (End of the Game, 2001, IUCN Amsterdam) observed 57 molar pieces, three pieces of skin, one tail, and an unquantified amount of elephant bone for sale. No ivory was recorded. In November 2002 one of us (CRS) observed 101 pieces of carved ivory and four raw tusks or tusk tips, and a few small pieces of elephant skin. Most observations were made at the Morning Market but also at one luxury hotel, and the main clientèle appeared to be either local Laotians or visitors from Thailand (the latter apparently only interested in ivory, not other elephant parts). In August 2011 we observed 12 molar pieces and 15 pieces of elephant skin offered for sale in 22 separate shops or stalls. A total of 2,379 pieces of carved ivory and 12 raw tusks or tusk tips were observed, openly displayed for sale. The trade in elephant parts, used largely for traditional medicine, was still concentrated in the Morning Market. The vendors were all Laotian and prices were in LAK; Laotians and Chinese were the main buyers. The trade in ivory had clearly shifted to antique shops, souvenir shops, jewellery and gem parlours and the lobbies of luxury hotels. The largest quantities of ivory, and the heaviest carved pieces, were displayed in two major luxury hotels, targeting high-end customers.

The main ivory traders and the main clientèle were Chinese (either Chinese nationals or Laotians of Chinese decent). Figurines with Maitreya and Kwan Yin as subjects (representing generosity, compassion and mercy in a Chinese cultural context) suggest that vendors were targeting Chinese customers. Name seals (hanko) observed for sale are exclusively produced for East Asian markets, further suggesting a northwards flow of ivory. Price tags showed prices in CNY or USD (not in LAK), placards were written in Chinese characters, and conversations between vendors and buyers took place in Chinese. Apart from one vendor hiding a large tusk upon our arrival in the shop, all trade in ivory and elephant parts was open, and vendors were generally keen to show their merchandise and discuss details. We were informed by several vendors that the ivory for sale originated from Laotian elephants (with some of the more intricate carving done in Vietnam or China) but we had no way of verifying this.

To the best of our knowledge no regular monitoring of the ivory trade is conducted by the country's law enforcement agencies, and Lao has never reported any seizures of ivory to the Elephant Trade Information System of CITES. The openness of the trade and the willingness of the vendors to talk about the trade attests to insufficient enforcement efforts. It is clear from our surveys that regular monitoring of the markets in Vientiane, including luxury hotels, is needed. Offenders should be prosecuted to the full extent of the law, reflecting the seriousness of the crime and to serve as a strong deterrent. International cooperation in this is essential and we urge Lao's CITES, customs and police authorities to work closely with enforcement officers in neighbouring countries and especially in China.