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New third-order probability density function for the surface elevation in irregular seas

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  06 November 2026

David R. Fuhrman*
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Mechanical Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, 2800 Kgs. Lyngby, Denmark
Yanyan Zhai
Affiliation:
Department of Civil and Mechanical Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, 2800 Kgs. Lyngby, Denmark
Mathias Klahn
Affiliation:
Niels Bohr Institute, University of Copenhagen, 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark
*
Corresponding author: David R. Fuhrman, drfu@dtu.dk

Abstract

Content of image described in text.

We develop saddle-point approximations of the probability density function (PDF) for the surface elevation in nonlinear, irregular seas, without any assumptions regarding uni-directionality of the wave field or narrow-bandedness of the spectrum. A new, closed-form approximation of the PDF at third order is derived, accounting for both skewness and kurtosis. The approximate PDF matches known asymptotics of the third-order positive tail exactly and is free of unphysical oscillations in the negative tail, which widely plague existing PDFs describing nonlinear seas. A normalisation procedure is introduced to enforce unit integral, zero mean and unit variance. We further show that the input cumulants can be adjusted to likewise yield prescribed skewness and kurtosis. Comparison of the new third-order PDF against challenging datasets stemming from irregular wave theory, a fully nonlinear wave model as well as laboratory experiments establishes accuracy. In the Appendix we additionally develop a novel perturbation method, which is used to derive the full form of the asymptotic positive and negative tails at fourth and fifth order, including (previously unknown) prefactors. Collectively, it is shown that even-order solutions inevitably involve oscillatory negative tails, whereas odd orders admit non-oscillatory negative-tail solutions.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2026. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. Plots showing the second-order saddle-point positions (black circles) in the complex plane, contours where Im(ϕ(s))=0${\rm Im} (\phi (s))=0$ (full black lines) as well as Re(ϕ(s))${\rm Re} (\phi (s))$ (colours). Results use fixed κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$ with (a$a$) ζ=−2$\zeta =-2$, (b$b$) ζ=ζcrit=−1.6¯$\zeta =\zeta _{crit}=-1.\overline {6}$, (c$c$) ζ=0$\zeta =0$ and (d$d$) ζ=2$\zeta =2$. The dashed red lines in (a$a$) depict additional contours where Im(ϕ(s))=Im(ϕ(s~))≠0${\rm Im} (\phi (s))={\rm Im} (\phi (\tilde {s}))\neq 0$.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Comparison of the second-order saddle-point approximation with the FKZ distribution, with κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$. Note the singularity occurring at ζ=ζcrit=−1/(2κ3)=−1.6¯$\zeta =\zeta _{crit}=-1/(2\kappa _3)=-1.\overline {6}$.

Figure 2

Figure 3. Plots showing the third-order saddle-point positions (black circles) in the complex plane, contours where Im(ϕ(s))=0${\rm Im} (\phi (s))=0$ (full black lines) as well as Re(ϕ(s))${\rm Re} (\phi (s))$ (colours). Results use fixed κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$ and κ4=0.2$\kappa _4=0.2$ with (a$a$) ζ=−2$\zeta =-2$, (b$b$) ζ=ζcrit=−1.275$\zeta =\zeta _{crit}=-1.275$ from (3.16), (c$c$) ζ=0$\zeta =0$ and (d$d$) ζ=2$\zeta =2$.

Figure 3

Figure 4. Comparison of the present third-order saddle-point approximation p~$\tilde {p}$ from (3.23), with the Gaussian (normal) distribution (3.5), the (second- and third-order) Gram–Charlier approximations of LH63 and the second-order FKZ distribution (3.13). All results use κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$ and κ4=0.2$\kappa _4=0.2$.

Figure 4

Figure 5. Comparison of the second-order FKZ distribution with the positive and negative asymptotic tail solutions with κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$.

Figure 5

Figure 6. Comparison of the third-order tail asymptotics with the saddle-point approximation p~(ζ)$\tilde {p}(\zeta )$ from (3.23), with κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$ and κ4=0.2$\kappa _4=0.2$.

Figure 6

Figure 7. Contour plots depicting the variation of (a$a$) I~$\tilde {\mathcal{I}}$, (b$b$) μ~$\tilde {\mu }$, (c$c$) σ~2$\tilde {\sigma }^2$, (d$d$) S~$\tilde {\mathcal{S}}$ and (e$e$) K~−3$\tilde {\mathcal{K}}-3$ for input κ3$\kappa _3$ and κ4$\kappa _4$ based on the third-order saddle-point approximation p~(ζ)$\tilde {p}(\zeta )$ from (3.23). Note that the red lines correspond to κ4=κ32/2$\kappa _4=\kappa _3^2/2$, below which p~(ζ)$\tilde {p}(\zeta )$ becomes complex.

Figure 7

Figure 8. Contour plots depicting the variation of (a$a$) S$\mathcal{S}$ and (b$b$) K−3$\mathcal{K}-3$ for input cumulants κ3$\kappa _3$ and κ4$\kappa _4$, based on the normalised PDF p(ζ)$p(\zeta )$ from (5.6). The red lines correspond to κ4=κ32/2$\kappa _4=\kappa _3^2/2$, the lower bound from assumption (3.21).

Figure 8

Figure 9. Contour plots depicting the variation of input cumulants (a$a$) κ3$\kappa _3$ and (b$b$) κ4$\kappa _4$ required to yield a desired combination of S$\mathcal{S}$ and K−3$\mathcal{K}-3$ using the normalised PDF p(ζ)$p(\zeta )$ from (5.6). The red lines correspond to K−3=S2/2$\mathcal{K}-3=\mathcal{S}^2/2$, the lower bound based on (3.21).

Figure 9

Figure 10. Possible parameter space for p(ζ)$p(\zeta )$ in terms of |S|$|\mathcal{S}|$ and K−3$\mathcal{K}-3$, achievable through normalisation of p~(ζ)$\tilde {p}(\zeta )$ as in (5.6) and modification of input cumulants κ3$\kappa _3$ and κ4$\kappa _4$. Cases considered in § 6 are indicated as circles.

Figure 10

Table 1. Summary of cases considered in the present work. Note that the listed κ3$\kappa _3$ and κ4$\kappa _4$ values correspond to the inputs required to yield p(ζ)$p(\zeta )$ from (5.6) having the listed skewness S$\mathcal{S}$ and excess kurtosis K−3$\mathcal{K}-3$. All PDFs shown in the referenced figures have I=1$\mathcal{I}=1$, μ=0$\mu =0$ and σ2=1$\sigma ^2=1$. Variable ND$N_D$ is the directional spreading parameter, with ND=∞$N_D=\infty$ indicating a uni-directional wave field.Table 1 long description.

Figure 11

Figure 11. Comparison with data generated from the second-order irregular wave theory of Madsen & Fuhrman (2012), cited as MF12 in the legend. This case considers S=0.3355$\mathcal{S}=0.3355$ and K=3.1902$\mathcal{K}=3.1902$.

Figure 12

Figure 12. Comparison with datasets generated from fully nonlinear wave model (Klahn et al.2021c) simulations with (a) S=0.2306$\mathcal{S}=0.2306$, K=3.0601$\mathcal{K}=3.0601$ and (b) S=0.3974$\mathcal{S}=0.3974$, K=3.2120$\mathcal{K}=3.2120$.

Figure 13

Figure 13. Comparison with selected datasets from Trulsen et al. (2020): (a) run 8 at their horizontal position x$x$ = 1.9 m (S=0.3021$\mathcal{S}=0.3021$, K=3.3234$\mathcal{K}=3.3234$) and (b) run 7 at x$x$ = 1.9 m (S=0.3585$\mathcal{S}=0.3585$, K=3.2818$\mathcal{K}=3.2818$).

Figure 14

Figure 14. Comparison with selected datasets from run 3 of Trulsen et al. (2020) at (a) their horizontal position x$x$ = 1.8 m (S=0.4778$\mathcal{S}=0.4778$, K=3.6690$\mathcal{K}=3.6690$), (b) x$x$ = 1.85 m (S=0.5273$\mathcal{S}=0.5273$, K=3.7526$\mathcal{K}=3.7526$) and (c) x$x$ = 2.2 m (S=0.7888$\mathcal{S}=0.7888$, K=4.194$\mathcal{K}=4.194$).

Figure 15

Table 2. Summary estimating the range of ζ$\zeta$ where the present third-order PDF maintains high accuracy for nonlinear irregular wave fields characterised by selected round skewness S$\mathcal{S}$ values.Table 2 long description.

Figure 16

Figure 15. Comparison with selected datasets having negative skewness from run 3 of Trulsen et al. (2020) at (a) x$x$ = 3.95 m (S=−0.2532$\mathcal{S}=-0.2532$, K=3.1277$\mathcal{K}=3.1277$) and (b) x$x$ = 3.9 m (S=−0.2599$\mathcal{S}=-0.2599$, K=3.1456$\mathcal{K}=3.1456$).

Figure 17

Figure 16. Plots showing the fourth-order saddle-point positions (black circles) in the complex plane, contours where Im(ϕ(s))=0${\rm Im} (\phi (s))=0$ (full black lines) as well as Re(ϕ(s))${\rm Re} (\phi (s))$ (colours). Results use fixed κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$, κ4=0.2$\kappa _4=0.2$ and κ5=0.1$\kappa _5=0.1$ with (a$a$) ζ=−4$\zeta =-4$ and (b$b$) ζ=2$\zeta =2$. The dashed red lines in (a$a$) depict additional contours where Im(ϕ(s))=Im(ϕ(s~))≠0${\rm Im} (\phi (s))={\rm Im} (\phi (\tilde {s}))\neq 0$ for the two contributing saddle points (filled circles).

Figure 18

Figure 17. Plots showing the fifth-order saddle-point positions (black circles) in the complex plane, contours where Im(ϕ(s))=0${\rm Im} (\phi (s))=0$ (full black lines) as well as Re(ϕ(s))${\rm Re} (\phi (s))$ (colours). Results use fixed κ3=0.3$\kappa _3=0.3$, κ4=0.2$\kappa _4=0.2$, κ5=0.1$\kappa _5=0.1$ and κ6=0.05$\kappa _6=0.05$ with (a$a$) ζ=−4$\zeta =-4$ and (b$b$) ζ=2$\zeta =2$.