1. Introduction
Third-order quasi-resonant interactions and associated modulational instabilities cause the statistics of weakly nonlinear gravity waves to significantly differ from the Gaussian structure of linear seas (Janssen Reference Janssen2003; Fedele Reference Fedele2008; Onorato et al. Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009; Shemer & Sergeeva Reference Shemer and Sergeeva2009; Toffoli et al. Reference Toffoli, Gramstad, Trulsen, Monbaliu, Bitner-Gregersen and Onorato2010; Xiao et al. Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013). One integral statistic used as a measure of the relative importance of such nonlinearities is the excess kurtosis defined by Janssen (Reference Janssen2003) as
where
${\it\eta}$
is the surface displacement with respect to the mean sea level,
${\it\sigma}^{2}=\langle {\it\eta}^{2}\rangle$
is the wave variance and angle brackets denote a statistical average. In general,
which comprises a dynamic component
$C_{4}^{d}$
due to nonlinear wave–wave interactions (Janssen Reference Janssen2003) and a bound contribution
$C_{4}^{b}$
induced by the characteristic crest–trough asymmetry of ocean waves (see e.g. Tayfun Reference Tayfun1980; Tayfun & Lo Reference Tayfun and Lo1990; Tayfun & Fedele Reference Tayfun and Fedele2007; Fedele & Tayfun Reference Fedele and Tayfun2009). If third-order Stokes contributions are taken into account (Janssen Reference Janssen2009, Reference Janssen2014b
; Janssen & Bidlot Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009) then
For unidirectional (long-crested) seas initially homogeneous and Gaussian on deep water, Mori & Janssen (Reference Mori and Janssen2006) have shown that the large-time behaviour of the dynamic excess kurtosis is to monotonically increase towards the asymptotic value
where
is the Benjamin–Feir index,
${\it\mu}=k_{0}{\it\sigma}$
represents an integral measure of wave steepness,
${\it\nu}$
is the spectral bandwidth and
$k_{0}$
is the dominant wavenumber. The preceding approximation is valid for the dynamics of unidirectional narrowband waves described by one-dimensional (1-D) nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) and Dysthe (Reference Dysthe1979) equations (see, for example, Shemer & Sergeeva Reference Shemer and Sergeeva2009; Shemer, Sergeeva & Liberzon Reference Shemer, Sergeeva and Liberzon2010a
; Shemer, Sergeeva & Slunyaev Reference Shemer, Sergeeva and Slunyaev2010b
).
Clearly, the preceding results are valid for unidirectional waves where energy is ‘trapped’ as in a long wave-guide. If dissipation is negligible and the wave steepness is small, quasi-resonant interactions are effective in reshaping the wave spectrum, inducing nonlinear focusing and large waves in the form of breathers via modulation instability before breaking occurs (Onorato et al. Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009; Shemer & Sergeeva Reference Shemer and Sergeeva2009; Shemer et al. Reference Shemer, Sergeeva and Liberzon2010a ; Chabchoub, Hoffmann & Akhmediev Reference Chabchoub, Hoffmann and Akhmediev2011; Chabchoub et al. Reference Chabchoub, Hoffmann, Onorato and Akhmediev2012; Shemer & Alperovich Reference Shemer and Alperovich2013; Shemer & Liberzon Reference Shemer and Liberzon2014). However, such 1-D conditions never occur in nature as they are unrealistic models of oceanic wind seas. The latter are typically multidirectional (short-crested) and energy can spread directionally. As a result, nonlinear focusing due to modulational effects is reduced (Onorato et al. Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009; Waseda, Kinoshita & Tamura Reference Waseda, Kinoshita and Tamura2009; Toffoli et al. Reference Toffoli, Gramstad, Trulsen, Monbaliu, Bitner-Gregersen and Onorato2010).
In regard to the kurtosis in short-crested seas initially homogeneous and Gaussian, the focus of recent numerical studies has been on the asymptotic behaviour with time (see, for example, Annenkov & Shrira Reference Annenkov and Shrira2013, Reference Annenkov and Shrira2014; Janssen & Bidlot Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009). Theoretical studies on the transient short-lived features of kurtosis and their relevance to the prediction of rogue waves are desirable. These provide the principal motivation for revisiting Janssen’s (Reference Janssen2003) formulation for the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear deep-water gravity waves.
The remainder of the paper is organized as follows. We first review Janssen’s (Reference Janssen2003) dynamic kurtosis model. Then, we present a new analytical solution of a sixfold integral that yields the growth rate of the dynamic excess kurtosis for narrowband Gaussian-shaped spectra. This is followed by a detailed study of its short-time evolution and long-time asymptotic behaviour and comparisons to numerical simulations and experiments. In concluding, we discuss the implications of these results for rogue wave prediction.
2. Dynamic excess kurtosis
Drawing on Janssen (Reference Janssen2003) the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear sea states, initially homogeneous and Gaussian, is given by
where the resonant function
$T_{12}^{34}$
is the Zakharov kernel (Zakharov Reference Zakharov1968, Reference Zakharov1999; Krasitskii Reference Krasitskii1994) as a function of the wavenumber vectors
$\boldsymbol{k}_{j}=(k_{j}\cos ({\it\theta}_{j}),k_{j}\sin ({\it\theta}_{j}))$
and
$\text{Re}(x)$
denotes the real part of
$x$
. The sixfold integral in (2.1) is defined over the manifold
or equivalently
${\it\delta}_{12}^{34}={\it\delta}(\boldsymbol{k}_{1}+\boldsymbol{k}_{2}-\boldsymbol{k}_{3}-\boldsymbol{k}_{4})$
, where
${\it\delta}(\boldsymbol{k})$
is the Dirac delta. The frequency mismatch is given by
${\it\omega}_{12}^{34}={\it\omega}_{1}+{\it\omega}_{2}-{\it\omega}_{3}-{\it\omega}_{4}$
,
$E({\it\omega},{\it\theta})$
is the surface spectrum and
${\it\sigma}^{2}$
is the variance of surface elevations. The deep-water angular frequency
${\it\omega}(k)=\sqrt{gk}$
, the wavenumber magnitude
$k=|\boldsymbol{k}|$
, and
follows from (2.3), with
$g$
denoting gravity acceleration. Since homogeneous Gaussian initial conditions with random phases and amplitudes are imposed, it follows that
Equation (2.1) can be simplified by resorting to a narrowband approximation (Mori & Janssen Reference Mori and Janssen2006; Janssen & Bidlot Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009). So, we assume the spectrum
$E$
to peak at
${\it\omega}={\it\omega}_{0}$
and
${\it\theta}={\it\theta}_{0}$
, where
${\it\omega}_{0}$
and
${\it\theta}_{0}$
denote the dominant angular frequency and wave direction, respectively, and the associated wavenumber
$k_{0}={\it\omega}_{0}^{2}/g$
, wave period
$T_{0}=2{\rm\pi}/{\it\omega}_{0}$
and phase speed
$c_{0}={\it\omega}_{0}/k_{0}$
. Next, define
where
${\it\nu}$
and
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}$
denote spectral and angular widths respectively. Under the narrowband condition
${\it\nu},{\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}\ll 1$
,
$T_{12}^{34}\sim k_{0}^{3}$
to leading order and the frequency mismatch, correct to
$O({\it\nu}^{2},{\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}^{2})$
, is given by
with
where
${\it\Delta}_{z}=(z_{1}-z_{3})(z_{2}-z_{3})$
for a generic
$z=(z_{1},z_{2},z_{3})$
triplet, and the parameter
is a measure of short-crestedness of dominant waves (Janssen & Bidlot Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009). Expanding (2.1) around
${\it\nu}=0$
and
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0$
, to leading order
where
Here,
${\it\tau}={\it\nu}^{2}{\it\omega}_{0}t$
is a dimensionless time and
$\widetilde{E}_{j}(v_{j},{\it\phi}_{j})=E_{j}/{\it\sigma}$
.
For a Gaussian-shaped spectrum, the rate of change of
$C_{4}^{d}$
is explicitly given by
and
where the function
$J_{0}({\it\tau};P,Q)$
is defined in appendix A and
$\text{Im}(x)$
denotes the imaginary part of
$x$
. On this basis, the factor
$J$
in (2.10) follows by quadrature as
For small times
${\it\tau}\ll 1$
,
and (2.10) yields
in agreement with Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009).
Note that the dynamic excess kurtosis in (2.10) is consistent with the evolution of weakly nonlinear narrowband wavetrains of the two-dimensional (2-D) NLS equation.
3. Intrinsic nonlinear time scale
The growth rate (2.12) of the dynamic
$C_{4}^{d}$
vanishes at the dimensionless time
or in physical units
where
$T_{0}=2{\rm\pi}/{\it\omega}_{0}$
is the dominant wave period. Further, the second derivative of
$C_{4}^{d}$
at
${\it\tau}_{c}$
is given by
Thus,
$C_{4}^{d}$
attains a positive maximum (negative minimum) at
${\it\tau}={\it\tau}_{c}$
for
$0<R<1$
(
$R>1$
). It is straightforward to show that for multidirectional or short-crested seas (
$R>0$
)
Indeed, it is sufficient to study the rate of change of
$C_{4}^{d}$
for large times
${\it\tau}\gg 1$
. To do so, consider the change of variable
${\it\tau}=1/r$
and expanding (2.12) around
$r=0$
yields
Note that in (2.13) the real part of the term within parentheses, which has no physical meaning, decays as
${\it\tau}^{-2}$
. For
$0<R<1$
,
$C_{4}^{d}$
first attains a positive peak at
${\it\tau}={\it\tau}_{c}$
and then decays monotonically to zero since
$\text{d}C_{4}^{d}/\text{d}{\it\tau}<0$
for large
${\it\tau}$
. This is clearly seen in figure 1, showing the evolution of
$C_{4}^{d}$
for different values of
$R$
. For
$R>1$
,
$C_{4}^{d}$
initially decreases, reaching a negative peak at
${\it\tau}={\it\tau}_{c}$
, and then tends monotonically to zero, because
$\text{d}C_{4}^{d}/\text{d}{\it\tau}>0$
for large
${\it\tau}$
as shown in figure 1. At the critical value
$R=1$
, the excess kurtosis is null at any time, as can easily be verified from (2.12).
In summary, depending on the value of
$R$
there will be nonlinear focusing (
$C_{4}^{d}>0$
) or nonlinear defocusing (
$C_{4}^{d}<0$
) in agreement with Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009). Note that for unidirectional or long-crested seas (
$R=0$
) the rate of change
$\text{d}C_{4}^{d}/\text{d}{\it\tau}>0$
for any time
${\it\tau}$
. In this case, the dynamic excess kurtosis monotonically increases with time to the asymptotic value of (1.4) (Mori & Janssen Reference Mori and Janssen2006; Shemer & Sergeeva Reference Shemer and Sergeeva2009; Fedele et al.
Reference Fedele, Cherneva, Tayfun and Soares2010; Shemer et al.
Reference Shemer, Sergeeva and Liberzon2010a
,Reference Shemer, Sergeeva and Slunyaev
b
).
Dynamic excess kurtosis: solid lines,
$C_{4}^{d}/\text{BFI}^{2}$
as a function of dimensionless time
${\it\tau}={\it\nu}^{2}{\it\omega}_{0}t=2{\rm\pi}{\it\nu}^{2}t/T_{0}$
for different values of
$R$
; dashed line, locus of transient peaks (
$T_{0}$
denotes the dominant wave period and
${\it\nu}$
is the spectral bandwidth).
4. Dynamic excess kurtosis maximum
From (2.10) and (3.1), the peak value of
$C_{4}^{d}$
at
${\it\tau}={\it\tau}_{c}$
is given by
where
The following relation holds:
in agreement with Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009). This relation allows us to compute the minimum kurtosis for
$R>1$
from the maximum value for
$R<1$
. Indeed,
where
$C_{4,max}^{d}=\text{BFI}^{2}J_{p}(R)$
. Clearly, this vanishes at
$R=1$
signalling the change from a nonlinear focusing to a defocusing regime where the dynamic excess kurtosis is negative.
Drawing on Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009), the limit
and that for small times in (2.16), suggest the least-squares fit for the maximum
where
$R_{0}=(3\sqrt{3})/{\rm\pi}$
and
$b=2.48$
. In figure 2(a), the preceding approximation is compared to the theoretical
$C_{4,max}^{d}$
obtained from solving (4.1) by numerical integration. Evidently, the latter is slightly larger than the maximum excess kurtosis derived by Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009), who have also used (4.6) but with
$b=1$
. Their maximum follows by first taking the limit of the resonant function
$G(t)$
in (2.2) at
$t=\infty$
and then solving the sixfold integral in (2.1). Clearly, for
$R>0$
the dynamic excess kurtosis should vanish at large times as discussed above. Janssen (personal communication, Reference Janssen2014a
) confirmed that (4.1) holds and provided an alternative proof that
$C_{4}^{d}$
tends to zero as
$t\rightarrow \infty$
using complex analysis and numerical integration.
Further, from (3.1)
Clearly, the transient maximum kurtosis becomes larger for longer time scales
${\it\tau}_{c}$
, as illustrated in figure 2(b). Note that the dynamic excess kurtosis is negative for
${\it\tau}_{c}>1/\sqrt{3}$
as the wave regime is of defocusing type (
$R>1$
) and the minimum value
$C_{4,min}^{d}$
can be computed from (4.4).
Maximum dynamic excess kurtosis
$C_{4,max}^{d}$
as a function of (a)
$R$
and (b)
$1/{\it\tau}_{c}$
: bold line, present theoretical prediction; thin line, least-squares fit from (4.6) (
$b=2.48$
); dashed line, Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009) fit (
$b=1$
).
5. Comparisons to simulations and experiments
We now compare the theoretical narrowband (NB) predictions for the total kurtosis
$C_{4}$
(see (1.2), (2.10) and (1.3)) to experimental results (Onorato et al.
Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009) and the comprehensive numerical simulations of JONSWAP directional wave fields carried out by Toffoli et al. (Reference Toffoli, Gramstad, Trulsen, Monbaliu, Bitner-Gregersen and Onorato2010) and Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013). They considered the broadband modified nonlinear Schrödinger equations (BMNLS) (Dysthe Reference Dysthe1979) and a high-order spectral (HOS) solver (Dommermuth & Yue Reference Dommermuth and Yue1987). In particular, we consider the comprehensive numerical results reported in figures 10(a,b) in Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013) for the two cases of narrow and broad directional spreading, i.e.
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.04$
and 0.07 respectively. The simulated sea states have standard deviation
${\it\sigma}=0.02\;\text{m}$
, dominant wave period
$T_{0}=1\;\text{s}$
, significant wave height
$H_{s}=4{\it\sigma}=0.08\;\text{m}$
,
$\text{BFI}=0.78$
, wave steepness
${\it\mu}=0.08$
and spectral bandwidth
${\it\nu}=0.15$
(see appendix B for the estimation of wave parameters). As shown in figure 3, the numerical studies by Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013) indicate an initial overshoot of the kurtosis followed by a decay towards quasi-Gaussian conditions.
In particular, figure 3(a) shows that for a narrow directional spreading (
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}\sim 0.04$
) the present theoretical NB model (thick line) explains the peak kurtosis and the initial transient behaviour of BMNLS simulations (thin dashed line) as NB is consistent with the dynamics of the 2-D NLS equation. BMNLS and NB yield faster initial growth and overestimate both HOS (thin solid line) and experiments (triangle symbols). However, soon after the transient stage, the spectrum has already broadened in frequency and spread angularly, approaching a quasi-equilibrium state. At this stage, the NB approximation provides just a qualitative trend of the large-time behaviour since it does not account for spectral changes. In particular, NB shows a slower decaying trend to zero than BMNLS. This indicates that numerical models capture the directional energy spreading and quasi-resonant interactions attenuate much faster than NB after the transient peak.
For a broad directional spreading (
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}\sim 0.07$
) figure 3(b) shows that NB overestimates the maximum kurtosis and qualitatively explains the initial transient overshoot of BMNLS simulations, which are now beyond their range of validity as the spectrum is already too broad initially. Instead, HOS simulations are in agreement with experiments and yield a smaller value of the maximum kurtosis and a slower transient than BMNLS. This suggests that higher order-nonlinearities and broader spectral bandwidth effects should be accounted for to obtain more accurate theoretical models for kurtosis evolution. Indeed, for the compact form of the 1-D Zakharov equation (cDZ, Dyachenko & Zakharov Reference Dyachenko and Zakharov2011), Fedele (Reference Fedele2014) showed that, correct to
$O({\it\nu}^{2})$
in spectral bandwidth, the associated dynamic kurtosis maximum
is smaller than the NLS counterpart
$C_{4,NLS}^{d}$
in (1.4), especially as the spectrum widens. The present study can be extended to derive an analytical solution of the kurtosis evolution from initial Gaussian and homogeneous wave conditions in accord with the 2-D Zakharov equation (Dyachenko & Zakharov Reference Dyachenko and Zakharov2011; Gramstad Reference Gramstad2014).
Finally, we note that in both the above-mentioned cases the NB model qualitatively describes the initial transient and kurtosis peak. For time scales
$t\gg t_{c}$
, NB indicates the correct asymptotic behaviour of the total kurtosis of surface elevations as dominated by nonlinear bound harmonics (see also Annenkov & Shrira Reference Annenkov and Shrira2013 and Annenkov & Shrira Reference Annenkov and Shrira2014).
Kurtosis
${\it\mu}_{4}=\langle {\it\eta}^{4}\rangle /\langle {\it\eta}^{2}\rangle ^{2}=3(C_{4}+1)$
as a function of time
$t/2T_{0}$
for JONSWAP directional wave fields initially homogeneous and Gaussian (
$\text{BFI}=0.78$
,
${\it\mu}=0.08$
,
${\it\nu}=0.15$
): theoretical narrowband predictions compared to simulations and experiments (▵) from Onorato et al. (Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009) (data digitized from figure 10a,b in Xiao et al.
Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013). (a) Narrow directional spreading with
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.04$
,
$R=0.03$
(see (2.9)) and (b) broad directional spreading with
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.07$
,
$R=0.1$
. Narrowband theory: dynamic kurtosis
${\it\mu}_{4}^{d}=3(C_{4}^{d}+1)$
from (2.10) (thick dashed line) and total kurtosis
${\it\mu}_{4}={\it\mu}_{4}^{d}+{\it\mu}_{4}^{b}$
(thick solid line), with
${\it\mu}_{4}^{b}=3(C_{4}^{b}+1)$
from (1.3). Dashed horizontal lines denote Janssen & Bidlot (Reference Janssen and Bidlot2009) dynamic kurtosis maximum from (4.6) with
$b=1$
. Simulation results from Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013): HOS (thin solid line), BMNLS (thin dashed line). The numerical results from Toffoli et al. (Reference Toffoli, Gramstad, Trulsen, Monbaliu, Bitner-Gregersen and Onorato2010) are also shown: BMNLS (○) and HOS (
$+$
).
6. Concluding remarks
Our refinement of Janssen’s (Reference Janssen2003) theory implies that in typical multidirectional or short-crested oceanic fields third-order quasi-resonant interactions do not appear to play a significant role in the wave growth. In particular, we have shown that the large excess dynamic kurtosis transient observed during the initial stage of wave evolution is a result of the unrealistic assumption that the initial wave field is homogeneous Gaussian. A random wave field forgets its initial conditions and adjusts to a non-Gaussian state dominated by bound nonlinearities in agreement with experiments (Onorato et al. Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009; Waseda et al. Reference Waseda, Kinoshita and Tamura2009) and simulations (Annenkov & Shrira Reference Annenkov and Shrira2013, Reference Annenkov and Shrira2014). In this regime, statistical predictions of rogue waves can be based on the Tayfun (Reference Tayfun1980) and Janssen (Reference Janssen2009) models to account for both second-order skewness and third-order bound kurtosis nonlinearities (Fedele Reference Fedele2015).
Acknowledgements
F.F. is grateful to P. A. E. M. Janssen for suggesting the topic of this work and for discussions on nonlinear water waves. F.F. also thanks M. L. Banner, V. Shrira and M. A. Tayfun for discussions on nonlinear wave statistics and random wave fields.
Appendix A
Consider the generic sixfold integral
where
$P$
and
$Q$
are complex coefficients,
and
$$\begin{eqnarray}\displaystyle \widetilde{E}_{j}(v_{j},{\it\phi}_{j})=\frac{\exp \left(-\displaystyle \frac{v_{j}^{2}+{\it\phi}_{j}^{2}}{2}\right)}{2{\rm\pi}}. & & \displaystyle\end{eqnarray}$$
Then, the integral (A 1) can be written as
$$\begin{eqnarray}\displaystyle J_{0}({\it\tau};P,Q) & = & \displaystyle \text{Re}\int \frac{1-\exp (\text{i}P{\it\Delta}_{v}{\it\tau}-\text{i}Q{\it\Delta}_{{\it\phi}}{\it\tau})}{P{\it\Delta}_{v}-\text{i}Q{\it\Delta}_{{\it\phi}}}\frac{\exp \left(-\displaystyle \frac{v_{1}^{2}+v_{2}^{2}+v_{3}^{2}}{2}\right)}{(2{\rm\pi})^{3/2}}\nonumber\\ \displaystyle & & \displaystyle \times \,\frac{\exp \left(-\displaystyle \frac{{\it\phi}_{1}^{2}+{\it\phi}_{2}^{2}+{\it\phi}_{3}^{2}}{2}\right)}{(2{\rm\pi})^{3/2}}\,\text{d}v_{1,2,3}\,\text{d}{\it\phi}_{1,2,3}.\end{eqnarray}$$
Clearly,
$v_{j}$
and
${\it\phi}_{j}$
are coupled via the denominator
$P{\it\Delta}_{v}-\text{i}Q{\it\Delta}_{{\it\phi}}$
. However, they become uncoupled if we take the time derivative
$$\begin{eqnarray}\displaystyle \frac{\text{d}J_{0}}{\text{d}{\it\tau}} & = & \displaystyle \text{Im}\int \exp (\text{i}P{\it\Delta}_{v}{\it\tau}-\text{i}Q{\it\Delta}{\it\tau})\frac{\exp \left(-\displaystyle \frac{v_{1}^{2}+v_{2}^{2}+v_{3}^{2}}{2}\right)}{(2{\rm\pi})^{3/2}}\nonumber\\ \displaystyle & & \displaystyle \times \,\frac{\exp \left(-\displaystyle \frac{{\it\phi}_{1}^{2}+{\it\phi}_{2}^{2}+{\it\phi}_{3}^{2}}{2}\right)}{(2{\rm\pi})^{3/2}}\,\text{d}v_{1,2,3}\,\text{d}{\it\phi}_{1,2,3}.\end{eqnarray}$$
Indeed,
where
$$\begin{eqnarray}\displaystyle I_{0}({\it\tau};P)=\int \exp (\text{i}P{\it\Delta}_{z}{\it\tau})\frac{\exp \left(-\displaystyle \frac{z_{1}^{2}+z_{2}^{2}+z_{3}^{2}}{2}\right)}{(2{\rm\pi})^{3/2}}\,\text{d}z_{1,2,3}. & & \displaystyle\end{eqnarray}$$
Drawing on Fedele et al. (Reference Fedele, Cherneva, Tayfun and Soares2010) Gaussian integration yields
and from (A 6)
Appendix B
Recently, Toffoli et al. (Reference Toffoli, Gramstad, Trulsen, Monbaliu, Bitner-Gregersen and Onorato2010) and Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013) have compared BMNLS and HOS simulations of JONSWAP directional wave fields to the experimental results in Onorato et al. (Reference Onorato, Cavaleri, Fouques, Gramstad, Janssen, Monbaliu, Osborne, Pakozdi, Serio, Stansberg, Toffoli and Trulsen2009). Their Benjamin–Feir index is a factor
$\sqrt{2}$
larger than the one used in this work (see (1.5)), that is
Further, their wave steepness
${\it\mu}^{\prime }=2{\it\mu}$
where
${\it\mu}=k_{0}{\it\sigma}$
is used in this work (see also table 1 in Toffoli et al.
Reference Toffoli, Gramstad, Trulsen, Monbaliu, Bitner-Gregersen and Onorato2010). In the numerical results reported in figure 10(a,b) of Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013),
$\text{BFI}^{\prime }=1.1$
and
${\it\mu}^{\prime }=0.16$
. Thus,
$\text{BFI}=0.78$
,
${\it\mu}=0.08$
and the spectral bandwidth follows as
${\it\nu}=\sqrt{2}{\it\mu}/\text{BFI}=0.15$
.
The directional distribution
$D({\it\theta})$
adopted by Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013) is given by
and the associated directional spreading follows as
$$\begin{eqnarray}{\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=\sqrt{\frac{\displaystyle \int _{-{\it\Theta}/2}^{{\it\Theta}/2}D({\it\theta}){\it\theta}^{2}\,\text{d}{\it\theta}}{\displaystyle \int _{-{\it\Theta}/2}^{{\it\Theta}/2}D({\it\theta})\,\text{d}{\it\theta}}}={\it\Theta}\sqrt{\frac{{\rm\pi}^{2}-6}{12{\rm\pi}^{2}}}.\end{eqnarray}$$
The numerical results shown in figure 10(a) of Xiao et al. (Reference Xiao, Liu, Wu and Yue2013) are for
${\it\Theta}=12({\rm\pi}/180)$
rad (narrow directional spreading); using (B 3) yields
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.04$
and
$R=0.03$
from (2.9). For the case of broad directional spreading shown in their figure 10(b)
${\it\Theta}=21({\rm\pi}/180)$
rad and
${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.07$
,
$R=0.1$
.