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On the kurtosis of deep-water gravity waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  30 September 2015

Francesco Fedele*
Affiliation:
School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, GA 30322, USA School of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, GA 30322, USA
*
†Email address for correspondence: fedele@gatech.edu

Abstract

In this paper, we revisit Janssen’s (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 33 (4), 2003, pp. 863–884) formulation for the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. For narrowband directional spectra, the formulation is given by a sixfold integral that depends upon the Benjamin–Feir index and the parameter $R={\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}^{2}/2{\it\nu}^{2}$ , a measure of short-crestedness for the dominant waves, with ${\it\nu}$ and ${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}$ denoting spectral bandwidth and angular spreading. Our refinement leads to a new analytical solution for the dynamic kurtosis of narrowband directional waves described with a Gaussian-type spectrum. For multidirectional or short-crested seas initially homogeneous and Gaussian, in a focusing (defocusing) regime dynamic kurtosis grows initially, attaining a positive maximum (negative minimum) at the intrinsic time scale ${\it\tau}_{c}={\it\nu}^{2}{\it\omega}_{0}t_{c}=1/\sqrt{3R}$ , or $t_{c}/T_{0}\approx 0.13/{\it\nu}{\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}$ , where ${\it\omega}_{0}=2{\rm\pi}/T_{0}$ denotes the dominant angular frequency. Eventually the dynamic excess kurtosis tends monotonically to zero as the wave field reaches a quasi-equilibrium state characterized by nonlinearities mainly due to bound harmonics. Quasi-resonant interactions are dominant only in unidirectional or long-crested seas where the longer-time dynamic kurtosis can be larger than that induced by bound harmonics, especially as the Benjamin–Feir index increases. Finally, we discuss the implication of these results for the prediction of rogue waves.

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© 2015 Cambridge University Press 
Figure 0

Figure 1. Dynamic excess kurtosis: solid lines, $C_{4}^{d}/\text{BFI}^{2}$ as a function of dimensionless time ${\it\tau}={\it\nu}^{2}{\it\omega}_{0}t=2{\rm\pi}{\it\nu}^{2}t/T_{0}$ for different values of $R$; dashed line, locus of transient peaks ($T_{0}$ denotes the dominant wave period and ${\it\nu}$ is the spectral bandwidth).

Figure 1

Figure 2. Maximum dynamic excess kurtosis $C_{4,max}^{d}$ as a function of (a) $R$ and (b) $1/{\it\tau}_{c}$: bold line, present theoretical prediction; thin line, least-squares fit from (4.6) ($b=2.48$); dashed line, Janssen & Bidlot (2009) fit ($b=1$).

Figure 2

Figure 3. Kurtosis ${\it\mu}_{4}=\langle {\it\eta}^{4}\rangle /\langle {\it\eta}^{2}\rangle ^{2}=3(C_{4}+1)$ as a function of time $t/2T_{0}$ for JONSWAP directional wave fields initially homogeneous and Gaussian ($\text{BFI}=0.78$, ${\it\mu}=0.08$, ${\it\nu}=0.15$): theoretical narrowband predictions compared to simulations and experiments (▵) from Onorato et al. (2009) (data digitized from figure 10a,b in Xiao et al.2013). (a) Narrow directional spreading with ${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.04$, $R=0.03$ (see (2.9)) and (b) broad directional spreading with ${\it\sigma}_{{\it\theta}}=0.07$, $R=0.1$. Narrowband theory: dynamic kurtosis ${\it\mu}_{4}^{d}=3(C_{4}^{d}+1)$ from (2.10) (thick dashed line) and total kurtosis ${\it\mu}_{4}={\it\mu}_{4}^{d}+{\it\mu}_{4}^{b}$ (thick solid line), with ${\it\mu}_{4}^{b}=3(C_{4}^{b}+1)$ from (1.3). Dashed horizontal lines denote Janssen & Bidlot (2009) dynamic kurtosis maximum from (4.6) with $b=1$. Simulation results from Xiao et al. (2013): HOS (thin solid line), BMNLS (thin dashed line). The numerical results from Toffoli et al. (2010) are also shown: BMNLS (○) and HOS ($+$).