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DEVIANT DERVISHES: SPACE, GENDER, AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF ANTINOMIAN PIETY IN OTTOMAN ALEPPO

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  23 September 2005

Heghnar Zeitlian Watenpaugh
Affiliation:
Heghnar Zeitlian Watenpaugh is Associate Professor and Aga Khan Career Development Professor in the Department of Architecture, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, Mass. 02139, USA; e-mail: heghnar@mit.edu.
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Extract

In the letters he wrote from Aleppo in 1600, the British merchant William Biddulph described the daily life of this dynamic center of the East–West trade, the city where spices and silks from India and Iran were exchanged for English broadcloth and New World silver in one of the world's largest covered bazaars. He also presented Muslim practices and religious beliefs, emphasizing those features that seemed to him most unusual and reprehensible. His contempt fell firmly on a fixture of the early modern Islamic street, the ecstatic, antinomian Muslim saint:They also account fooles, dumbe men, and mad men,…Saints. And whatsoever such mad men say or doe…or strike them, and wound them, yet they take it in good part, and say, that they shall have good lucke after it. And when such mad men die, they Canonize them for Saints, and erect stately Monuments over their graves, as we have here many examples, especially of one (who being mad) went always naked, whose name was Sheh Boubac…they…erected an house over his grave, where…they are Lampes burning night and day, and many idle fellows (whom they call Darvises) there maintained to looke unto his Sepulchre…

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© 2005 Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Map of Aleppo in the early 17th century. After Sauvaget, Alep, plate 62. Redrawn by José Luis Argüello. Important City gates: (1) Bab Antakiyya, (2) Bab Qinnesrin, (3) Bab al-Maqam, (4) Bab al-Nayrab, (5) Bab al-Ahmar, (6) Bab al-Hadid, (7) Bab al-Nasr, (8) Bab al-Faraj, (9) Bab al-Jinan.

Figure 1

A member of the Abdals of Rum group of deviant dervishes. From Nicolasde Nicolay Daulphinoys, The Navigations, Peregrinations, andVoyages, Made into Turkie by Nicholas Nicholay Daulphinois, trans. T.Washington the Younger (London: Thomas Dawson, 1585), 103 recto.

Figure 2

Sultan-Muhammad, Heavenly and Earthly Drunkenness, from adispersed Divan by Hafiz, copied at Tabriz, ca. 1525, fol.135r. Qalandar dervishes crouch at the bottom left. Courtesy of the ArthurM. Sackler Museum, Harvard University Art Museums, Cambridge, Mass. Promisedgift of Mr. and Mrs. Stuart Cary Welch, Jr. Partially owned by theMetropolitan Museum of Art and the Arthur M. Sackler Museum, HarvardUniversity, 1988. 1988. 460. 3. Photograph by Allan Macintyre.

Figure 3

Artist unknown. The Miracle Contest. Haji Bektash seated on a wall meets a challenger riding a lion. Photograph of a glass painting of unknown origin. Acquired in Haji Bektash Köyü, Turkey, in 1979. Collection of Martin van Bruinessen

Figure 4

The Takiyya (Dervish Lodge) of Shaykh Abu Bakr, Aleppo, viewed from the south. Postcard by Wattar Frères, Aleppo, ca. 1930s. Collection of the author

Figure 5

The Dervish Lodge viewed from the courtyard. The domed Tomb of Shaykh Abu Bakr is on the right. Photo: Author

Figure 6

Aleppo seen from the Takiyya of Shaykh Abu Bakr. From Sauvaget, Alep, plate 4