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Published online by Cambridge University Press: 06 April 2005
The people of Fukuoka are open, unpretentious, and unlike the stereotypical image of themeticulous Japanese, happy to let loose. The moment you arrive in Fukuoka to attend the 2006IPSA World Congress in early July, the city will sweep you up in the excitement of its mostfamous festival, Hakata Gion Yamakasa. The city has welcomed the arrival ofsummer for the last 760 years with this 15-day long festival, which culminates on July 15thin the powerful portable shrine race. The race begins at daybreak, as hundreds of men rushwith beautifully decorated floats each weighing over a ton on their shoulders, with all ofFukuoka cheering them on by throwing water on the racers' hot bodies. This bustlingcelebration of summer epitomizes what has long been considered the Fukuoka spirit.
The people of Fukuoka are open, unpretentious, and unlike the stereotypical image of the meticulous Japanese, happy to let loose. The moment you arrive in Fukuoka to attend the 2006 IPSA World Congress in early July, the city will sweep you up in the excitement of its most famous festival, Hakata Gion Yamakasa. The city has welcomed the arrival of summer for the last 760 years with this 15-day long festival, which culminates on July 15th in the powerful portable shrine race. The race begins at daybreak, as hundreds of men rush with beautifully decorated floats each weighing over a ton on their shoulders, with all of Fukuoka cheering them on by throwing water on the racers' hot bodies. This bustling celebration of summer epitomizes what has long been considered the Fukuoka spirit.
This unique Fukuoka spirit is a product of the role that the city has played for millennia as Japan's window to the rest of Asia. Because of its proximity to the continent, the city has been a gateway for economic and cultural exchanges with its Asian neighbors from as early as 4th century BC when rice farming technology arrived in Japan. Today, Fukuoka's openness to new things has translated into its position as a trendsetter in the areas of fashion, architecture, and the arts. As the economic and cultural center of Kyushu, the southernmost of the four main islands of Japan, Fukuoka is now working hard to strengthen its ties to the rest of Asia toward the goal of becoming the “focal point of exchange in Asia.”
Today's city is the product of a fusion of two cities, Hakata and Fukuoka. Hakata has always been a merchant port city; Fukuoka developed as the castle town of the regional feudal lord. The two cities merged in 1889. On that time, the citizens of the city voted on a name for the new city, choosing between Hakata and Fukuoka. According to legend, Fukuoka won the title by a single vote. Nevertheless, Hakata remains the name of Fukuoka's central district and main railway station.
The 400-year old Fukuoka castle no longer stands, but its ruins, consisting of parts of the original structure, can be visited. The ruins include a large platform which has now become an observatory with views of the entire city. You can see with your own eyes what the lord might have looked down upon if you visit Fukuoka History Town, a large theme park replicating the streets of Fukuoka during the Edo Period (1603–1868). Here you can experience the history and folk arts of the region and even visit a Ninja Town. Visitors can also experience the lifestyle and festivals of the Meiji and Taisho Periods (1868–1926) at Hakata Machiya House Museum. The museum includes what was once the workshop and residence of a master weaver of hakata ori, a traditional fabric typically used for kimono sashes. The workshop now also makes wallets and neckties which can be purchased from only a few hundred Yen (several U.S. Dollars). At the museum you can get hands-on experience in making hakata ori as well as other folk crafts.
Fukuoka's efficient subway system makes getting to and from the airport and railway station, as well as the convention hall and tourist spots, hassle free. It takes only 11 minutes on the subway from the airport to Hotel Okura Fukuoka, IPSA's official hotel. While Fukuoka offers all the conveniences of a major city, its slower pace and manageable size allow visitors to relax and revel in the Fukuoka spirit. Before and after the IPSA World Congress, delegates can take the opportunity to ride the famed "Bullet Train" to speed to the ancient capital of Kyoto or Osaka in 2.5 hours, and to Tokyo in 5 hours.
Kyushu's extensive transportation system means that most destinations on this fascinating island can be reached quickly. The imposing volcanic mountains of Aso in Kumamoto Prefecture, and Yufuin, a misty sanctuary hidden amongst the delicate natural beauty of Oita Prefecture, are only a short train ride away. The island also includes such historically significant locations as Nagasaki and Kagoshima Prefectures made famous in the recent film, The Last Samurai, as well as the birthplace of Japanese mythology, Takachiho in Miyazaki Prefecture. There is a wealth of picturesque hot springs, and at least one night at a spa is a must. IPSA's official travel agency for the 2006 Fukuoka World Congress, Nippon Travel Agency, will be happy to arrange your travel plans within Japan (fukuoka_media@nta.co.jp).
Fukuoka is a modern city, but temples, shrines, gardens and other places of cultural and historic interest are carefully preserved. Fukuoka is home to the first Zen temple in Japan, Shofukuji Temple. The nearby Tochoji temple boasts Japan's largest wooden sitting Buddha. In this vicinity, it is easy to find yourself slipping back in time as you take a stroll among old houses and paths dotted with serene temples and shrines. Then experience anachronistic vertigo as you enter Canal City Hakata, the futuristic, three-dimensional city-within-a-city. The first of its kind in Japan, it's a hive of activity containing the Grand Hyatt Fukuoka Hotel, the Fukuoka City Theater, movie theaters, and Fukuoka Joypolis, a space-age amusement park. Locals relax and cheer on street performers in its central square, amongst the strategically placed splashes of greenery and water.
You can ease your stiff back after a long day presenting at the IPSA Congress at the Hakata hot springs known for its various healing properties. Or take part in a traditional tea ceremony, the intrinsically simple process of serving and drinking green tea elevated into a refined art form. This can be experienced at a feudal lord's villa located in Yusentei Garden, which also contains a walking path around a small lake. In summer, Fukuoka promises resort weather, so be sure to dress in short sleeves and casual clothing. Other places to relax include Ohori Park Japanese Garden, located by a lake that originally formed part of the castle moat. This park includes a traditional Noh stage, where the treasured Japanese performing art can be enjoyed. Just outside of the IPSA Congress center is the Bayside Place Hakata Futoh, packed with a theatre, aquarium, trendy shops, fashionable cafes, and a year round snow board slope.
At night, let the neon lights along the Naka River lure you to Nakasu, the largest entertainment district in Western Japan. This thin sliver of land is home to over 2,000 eating and drinking establishments, always buzzing with Fukuokans seeking some after-work revelry. A special feature of nighttime Fukuoka is the “yatai,” or street stalls offering a range of tasty specialties including hakata ramen and a chance to rub shoulders with the locals.
But the best is still to come. Once you experience the wealth of culinary opportunities in Fukuoka, you will wish there were more meals in a day. The seafood is the forté here, with fugu (blowfish) and karashi-mentaiko among its specialty. The latter is sumptuous sacks of cod roe pickled in hot paprika and matured until it gains a mellow spiciness and its special appetite-whetting flavor.
Locals will tell you that you are not a real Fukuokan until you make a late night run to a street stall for some hakata ramen, tender Chinese-style noodles in an impressive white broth made by boiling tonkotsu (pork bones). It's a full bodied dish, but you will find it light enough to be a snack in the wee hour.
If you thought sushi is an expensive luxury, think again! Fukuoka offers many kaiten sushi restaurants featuring a revolving sushi bar, which are very tasty, very popular, and very inexpensive. It is little wonder that Fukuoka has been ranked the number one city in Asia for quality of life in surveys published by AsiaWeek. In case your palate seeks home comforts, or you simply want to venture out, be assured that Fukuoka offers a wide selection of Asian cuisines including Chinese and Korean, along with French, Italian, and other Western foods.
While Fukuoka can spot new trends from miles away, the people of the city continue to value what has been loved and nurtured for ages, most notably its festivals and its folk arts and crafts. The most famous of the folk arts is the hakata dolls, said to have first been made during the construction of Fukuoka Castle in the 17th century. A craftsman working on the roof of the castle made a doll for his lord from the leftover clay. Their graceful shapes and rich facial expressions are admired in Japan and abroad. The dolls depict a wide range of people: kimono-clad women, kabuki stars, warriors, and children. Visits can be made to workshops to observe the masters at work, and the dolls can be purchased from a few hundred Yen (several U.S. Dollars).
Hakata magemono is delicate wooden wares made by warping thin sheets of wood such as cedar and Japanese cypress and joined by cherry bark. Paper maché crafts called hakata hariko, on which colors are painstakingly added one-by-one, first appeared in the mid-Edo period. Takatori yaki pottery, highly valued for its delicate balance of idiosyncratic shapes and glaze, make lovely souvenirs. The kids will delight in the traditional toy hakata chanpon, a beautiful glass pipe that makes a sound like “chanpon” when you blow into it.
Fukuoka offers a broad range of accommodations, from internationally known hotel groups to family-run Japanese inns, with a similarly broad range of prices. Yet accommodation is consistently cheaper than in other major Japanese cities. Generally speaking, hotels in Fukuoka average 20% less than those in Tokyo. The IPSA Local Organization Committee has negotiated a bargain price with IPSA's official hotel, Hotel Okura Fukuoka. One night's stay in this best hotel of Fukuoka, only an 11-minute walk from the convention center, will cost you only 11,000 Yen (100 U.S. Dollars). The hotel is located within Hakata Riverain, a multi-complex facility equipped with all the urban functions such as the Fukuoka Asian Art Museum, the gorgeous Hakataza Theatrer, and many shops and restaurants. Space fills up quickly at this time of the year, so advance planning is recommended. In addition, 71 hotels in the city offer “convention rates,” which reduce accommodation costs for delegates from 10 to 45%. You can also count on flashing your Welcome Card, a free token of welcome that the city issues to foreign visitors, to receive discounts from hotels, facilities, shops, and restaurants.
July is the liveliest month in one of the liveliest cities in Japan. The people of Fukuoka are eager to share their excitement, so get ready to let loose and soak up all that the city has to offer. As Fukuoka speeds quickly towards its goal of becoming an international presence, now is the time to visit this energetic city. Japan's best kept secret won't be well kept for long!
The 2006 IPSA World Congress in Fukuoka, centered on the theme “Is Democracy Working?”, will be held from July 9 to 13, 2006. Paper and panel proposals are accepted electronically through the IPSA 2006 Congress official web site by March 31, 2005: www.fukuoka2006.com/en/