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“Speaking Bitterness”: Autobiography, History, and Mnemonic Politics on the Sino-Tibetan Frontier

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  07 April 2005

Charlene Makley
Affiliation:
Anthropology, Reed College
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Extract

In the Tibetan Buddhist monastery town of Labrang, located in southwest Gansu Province, China, the past is a heavy, and very often hidden, burden for residents and visitors alike (figure 1). This is not readily apparent amidst the bustling ‘nowness’ of commercial activities in this tourist site and model town for the profitable coexistence of Tibetan Buddhist monasticism and Chinese state-sponsored development goals. But as I discovered over the course of my fieldwork there in the mid-1990s, and again in the summer of 2002, for a population living with unsanctioned memories of the traumatic ruptures of the Chinese Communist-led revolution beginning in 1949, the ‘unsaid’ of history spoke loudly in implication—in implied dialogue with multimedia official histories, in the gaps in written and oral chronologies of events, in the revived performance of the lay and monastic ritual calendars, and in the dodges and silences of my Tibetan interlocutors during our many conversations about their pasts: “I don't know anything! I'm too young, you know!” (Tibetan [Tib.] ngas shes ni ma red, nga lo chung gi mo). Ama Drolma, a village matriarch in her late fifties, repeated this adamantly to me after I and my Tibetan woman assistant had asked her for a taped interview about local “history” (Tib. lo rgyus). She would hear none of our explanations about my interest in people's personal histories and insisted that I seek out old men, they would know about “early, early, early times” (Tib. sngan na sngan na sngan na).

Information

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 2005 Society for Comparative Study of Society and History
Figure 0

Location of Labrang in the People's Republic of China (by the author).

Figure 1

View of Sang river valley looking east. Labrang monastery is at lower right, Labrang town and Xiahe County seat upper left. Summer 1993 (photo by the author).

Figure 2

Detail from life-size clay sculpture exhibit “Wrath of the Serfs,” Lhasa Museum of Revolution, 1976. Depicts a monk pushing a boy into a box, to bury him under a new monastery as a “sacrificial offering” (photo courtesy Clare Harris).

Figure 3

“Speaking bitterness” meetings on grasslands west of Labrang, c. 1958. American writer Anna Louise Strong took these from an exhibit in Beijing. Captions are from her pro-CCP book, Tibetan Interviews (1959).

Figure 4

Images of local trulkus and deities for sale in Labrang street market. Largest photos: left: Gongtang; right: current Jamyang Shepa, a layman, Summer 1993 (photo by the author).

Figure 5

Ruins of a hermitage destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Labrang, Spring 1995 (photo by the author).