Hostname: page-component-7b7567c8c-jswmv Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2026-11-15T09:40:33.097Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

On the breaking inception of unsteady water wave packets evolving in the presence of constant vorticity

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  09 March 2021

Julien Touboul*
Affiliation:
Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Univ., CNRS, IRD, MIO, Toulon, France
Michael L. Banner
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics and Statistics, The University of New South Wales, Sydney 2052, Australia
*
†Email address for correspondence: julien.touboul@mio.osupytheas.fr

Abstract

The recent numerical study of Barthelemy et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 841, 2018, pp. 463–488) investigated the local properties of two-dimensional (2-D) and three-dimensional (3-D) nonlinear unsteady gravity wave packets in deep and uniform intermediate depth water. Their study focused on the breaking inception transition zone separating maximum recurrence and marginal breaking, and reported that a suitably normalized energy flux localized at the steepest crest in the packet provides a robust breaking threshold parameter. Our present study uses the fully nonlinear boundary integral element method solver developed by Touboul & Kharif (Nat. Haz., vol. 84, issue 2, 2016, pp. 585–598) to investigate breaking inception of 2-D deep water nonlinear water wave packets propagating in the presence of a background current that varies linearly with depth. We seek to validate whether the proposed generic breaking inception threshold holds for the case of constant background vorticity. Results are presented for different packet bandwidths and background vorticity levels.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2021. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1.Evolution of the relative error on the maximum value of the breaking parameter $B_x$ for the maximum recurrent wave as a function of the number of nodes used in the simulation.

Figure 1

Table 1.Hydrodynamical conditions and wave group properties simulated.

Figure 2

Figure 2.Time evolution of the normalized wave properties, while tracking a marginally recurrent $N7$ wave packet, $k_p={\rm \pi} /2$, propagating with or without initial vorticity. (a) shows the normalized local wave steepness $S_c/S_{cmax}$, (b) shows the leaning factor $L$, (c) shows the crest velocity $c_x/c_0$, while (d) corresponds to the mid-point zero-crossing velocity $c_{zc}/c_0$.

Figure 3

Figure 3.Time evolution of the local steepness $S_c$, while tracking a marginally recurrent $N7$ wave packet, $k_p={\rm \pi} /2$, plotted versus crest celerity, for the maximum recurrent wave obtained with or without vorticity. Black solid line corresponds to the fifth-order Stokes theory.

Figure 4

Figure 4.Evolution of the breaking parameter $B_x$ as a function of time for recurrent wave groups obtained with or without vorticity. The horizontal black lines at $0.85 < B_x < 0.86$ are the threshold which segregates breaking from non-breaking cases.

Figure 5

Figure 5.Breaking parameter $B_x$ plotted against local steepness $S_c$. Each point was obtained by tracking the maximum $B_x$ for every crest in each wave packet simulated. The horizontal black lines at $0.85 < B_x < 0.86$ are the threshold which segregates breaking from non-breaking cases. The vertical line located at $S_c>0.72$ corresponds to the classical Stokes corner in deep water conditions. The dashed line is the linearization $B_x=S_c$. Top: deep water conditions ($k_p={\rm \pi}$), Bottom: intermediate water depth ($k_p={\rm \pi} /2$).

Figure 6

Figure 6.Free surface evolution of a marginal breaking wave obtained by propagating a $N9$ wave packet. Left-hand panel plots are obtained in the presence of a negative vorticity $S=-0.5$, for an initial wave packet of amplitude $A_p=0.046$. Centre-panel plots are obtained in the absence of positive vorticity $S=0.0$, for an initial wave packet of amplitude $A_p=0.037$. Finally, right-side panel plots are obtained in the presence of a positive vorticity $S=0.5$, for an initial wave packet of amplitude $A_p=0.030$.