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Second-order Lagrangian description of tri-dimensional gravity wave interactions

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  30 April 2015

Frédéric Nouguier*
Affiliation:
Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), UM 110, Université de Toulon, CNRS, Aix-Marseille Université, IRD, 83957 La Garde, France
Bertrand Chapron
Affiliation:
Laboratoire d’Océanographie Spatiale, Ifremer, 29280 Plouzané, France
Charles-Antoine Guérin
Affiliation:
Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), UM 110, Université de Toulon, CNRS, Aix-Marseille Université, IRD, 83957 La Garde, France
*
†Email address for correspondence: frederic.nouguier@univ-tln.fr

Abstract

We revisit and supplement the description of gravity waves based on perturbation expansions in Lagrangian coordinates. A general analytical framework is developed to derive a second-order Lagrangian solution to the motion of arbitrary surface gravity wave fields in a compact and vectorial form. The result is shown to be consistent with the classical second-order Eulerian expansion by Longuet-Higgins (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 17, 1963, pp. 459–480) and is used to improve the original derivation by Pierson (1961 Models of random seas based on the Lagrangian equations of motion. Tech. Rep. New York University) for long-crested waves. As demonstrated, the Lagrangian perturbation expansion captures nonlinearities to a higher degree than does the corresponding Eulerian expansion of the same order. At the second order, it can account for complex nonlinear phenomena such as wave-front deformation that we can relate to the initial stage of horseshoe-pattern formation and the Benjamin–Feir modulational instability to shed new light on the origins of these mechanisms.

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© 2015 Cambridge University Press 
Figure 0

Figure 1. Interaction of two harmonics of equal amplitudes ($A=0.08~\text{m}$) and wavenumbers ($k=1.104~\text{rad}~\text{m}^{-1}$) but different directions of propagation: $+$ and $-$ 48.2° relative to direction ${\it\alpha}$. (a) Sea surface elevation at $t=0$. (b) ${\it\alpha}$ component of the Stokes drift velocity: $\langle \boldsymbol{r}_{2t}\rangle _{t}$ (${\it\beta}$ component vanishes). Such component is independent of ${\it\alpha}$. We can see a mean Stokes drift of about $3~\text{cm}~\text{s}^{-1}$ and its spatial variations leading to increasing crescent shape patterns. (c) Sea surface elevation after a long time period of 30 s. The surface has developed distorted wave fronts.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Surface elevation obtained with three harmonics, $k_{0}=0.491~\text{rad}~\text{m}^{-1}$, $k_{1}=k_{2}=1.104~\text{rad}~\text{m}^{-1}$, respective amplitudes, $a_{0}=0.24~\text{m}$ and $a_{1}=a_{2}=0.06~\text{m}$, directions of propagation relative to ${\it\alpha}$, ${\it\theta}_{0}=0,{\it\theta}_{1}=-{\it\theta}_{2}=\arccos (2/3)$, and phases ${\it\varphi}_{0}=-{\rm\pi}/2,{\it\varphi}_{1}={\it\varphi}_{2}=0$. (a) Sea surface elevation at $t=30~\text{s}$. (b) Temporal record of the water surface elevation at fixed point $({\it\alpha},{\it\beta})=(0,0)$. (c) Fourier transform of the temporal record (figure 2b). We can identify frequency $f_{0}=(2{\rm\pi})^{-1}\sqrt{gk_{0}}$ and harmonic $(3/2)f_{0}$ coming for $\boldsymbol{k}_{1}$ and $\boldsymbol{k}_{2}$ contribution.

Figure 2

Figure 3. Slices along an equi-${\it\alpha}$ contour (perpendicular to the mean direction of wave) of the first- and second-order Lagrangian surface. The slices pass through a wave crest. The different second-order contributions are superimposed as well as their combined effects (arrows).

Figure 3

Figure 4. Interaction of two harmonics of equal amplitudes ($A=0.43~\text{cm}$) and wavelength (${\it\lambda}=7.8~\text{cm}$) but different directions of propagation: $+$ and $-$ 33° relative to direction ${\it\beta}$: (a) figure 14 from Kimmoun et al. (1999); (b) second-order Lagrangian profile; (c) first-order Eulerian profile; (d) first-order Lagrangian profile.

Figure 4

Table 1. Orbital $|A(k)|$, horizontal $|\hat{x}|$, vertical $|\hat{z}|$ motions and surface $|\hat{{\it\eta}}|$ spectral amplitudes obtained from a two-wave orbital system: $(k_{0},k_{2})={\rm\pi}/2\times (1,1+p)$ and $(a_{0},a_{2})=s/k_{0}\times (1,c)$ with $s=0.35$, $p=0.1$ and $c=0.08$.

Figure 5

Figure 5. Spectral repartition of the orbital spectrum components with $k_{1}+k_{2}=2k_{0}$.

Figure 6

Figure 6. Time evolution of the spectral amplitudes of the carrier wave (${\it\omega}_{0}=3.93~\text{rad}~\text{s}^{-1}$), the low- and the high-frequency sidebands (${\it\omega}_{1}=3.74$ and ${\it\omega}_{2}=4.11~\text{rad}~\text{s}^{-1}$). Solid lines represent the Lagrangian expansion and dashed lines the Eulerian expansion. The period defined in (6.16) is 726 s.

Figure 7

Figure 7. Spectral repartition of the orbital spectrum components with $\boldsymbol{k}_{1}+\boldsymbol{k}_{2}=2\boldsymbol{k}_{0}$.

Figure 8

Figure 8. Sea surface profiles derived from second-order solutions of Lagrangian (a) and Eulerian (b) expansion. Here $t=17~\text{s}$.

Figure 9

Figure 9. Eulerian (a) and Lagrangian (b) surface spectra. Here $t=17~\text{s}$.

Figure 10

Figure 10. Evolution of the carrier and satellites amplitudes as a function of time.