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On the physical mechanism of front–back asymmetry of non-breaking gravity–capillary waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  13 November 2020

Alexander Dosaev
Affiliation:
Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics, 46 Ulyanov Street, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia
Yuliya I. Troitskaya
Affiliation:
Department of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Institute of Applied Physics, 46 Ulyanov Street, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia
Victor I. Shrira*
Affiliation:
School of Computing and Mathematics, Keele University, Keele ST5 5BG, UK
*
†Email address for correspondence: v.i.shrira@keele.ac.uk

Abstract

In nature, the wind waves of the gravity–capillary range are noticeably skewed forward. The salient feature of such waves is a characteristic pattern of capillary ripples on their crests. The train of these ‘parasitic capillaries’ is not symmetric with respect to the crest, it is localised on the front slope and decays towards the trough. Although understanding the gravity–capillary waves front–back asymmetry is important for remote sensing and, potentially, for wave–wind interaction, the physical mechanisms causing this asymmetry have not been identified. Here, we address this gap by extensive numerical simulations of the Euler equations employing the method of conformal mapping for two-dimensional potential flow and taking into account wave generation by wind and dissipation due to molecular viscosity. On examining the role of various factors contributing to the wave profile front–back asymmetry: wind forcing, viscous stresses and the Reynolds stresses caused by ripples, we found, in the absence of wave breaking, the latter to be by far the most important. It is the lopsided ripple distribution which leads to the noticeable fore–aft asymmetry of the mean wave profile. We also found how the asymmetry depends on wavelength, steepness, wind, viscosity and surface tension. The results of the model are discussed in the context of the available experimental data on asymmetry of gravity–capillary waves in both the breaking and non-breaking regimes. A reasonable agreement of the model with the data has been found for the regime without breaking or microbreaking.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2020. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. An example of a longitudinal cross-section of a wave profile observed at the Luminy ‘Large Air-Sea Interaction Facility’ as viewed from the side by the camera. The $5.0\ \mathrm {m\ s^{-1}}$ wind is blowing from left to right, the fetch is $6\ \mathrm {m}$, the characteristic wavelength is $6\ \mathrm {cm}$. There are no wave breaking in this regime (according to the classification proposed in Caulliez (2013) it is ‘regime II’. The photo is courtesy of G.Caulliez).

Figure 1

Figure 2. Evolution of an initially symmetric smooth wave under the action of wind and formation of a skewed steady pattern with capillaries on the front slope. The time step between consecutive profiles is $0.05\ \mathrm {s}$. The parameters are $\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=20\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$, $\tau _0$ is the wave period given by the linear dispersion relation. (a) Evolution of wave profile and (b) evolution of the wave full mechanical energy defined by (2.6).

Figure 2

Figure 3. Comparison with the Navier–Stokes simulations from Hung & Tsai (2009). Evolution of an initial Stokes wave of wavelength $\lambda =5\ \mathrm {cm}$ and steepness $ak=0.3$ subjected at time $t=0$ (in addition to gravity) to capillarity ($T=73\ \mathrm {cm^3\ s^{-2}}$) and viscosity ($\nu =0.01\ \mathrm {cm^2\ s^{-1}}$). The Navier–Stokes simulations are shown by the dashed lines, the conformal mapping results are shown by the solid lines. The phase velocity difference of ${\sim }5\,\%$ was adjusted when plotting this figure. $(a)\,\, T = 0.3,\, (b)\,\, T = 2T_{0},\, (c)\,\, T = 1T_{0}\,\, {\rm and}\,\, (d)\,\, T = 3T_{0}.$

Figure 3

Figure 4. Stationary profiles of $\lambda =5\ \mathrm {cm}$ and $\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$ waves (solid black lines) compared with the ‘Class 1’ profiles from Fedorov & Melville (1998) (dashed red lines). The parameters are $T=73\ \mathrm {cm^3\ s^{-2}}$, $\nu =0.01\ \mathrm {cm^2\ s^{-1}}$. $(a)\lambda = 5, ak = 0.250, (b)\lambda = 10, ak = 0.350, (c)\lambda = 5, ak = 0.300{\rm and}(d)\lambda = 10, ak = 0.375.$

Figure 4

Figure 5. Slope of the exact (black solid line) and smoothed (red dashed line) wave profile for the steady configuration with the parameters $\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=20\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$; definitions of minimum and maximum averaged slope. At the bottom the exact elevation profile is plotted as a reference.

Figure 5

Figure 6. Saturation of various asymmetry measures with decrease of the smoothing scale $\sigma$ for the example steady wave configuration ($\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=20\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$).

Figure 6

Figure 7. Example of the evolution of two measures of asymmetry: $A$ (red line) and $\delta X$ (black line). In the example simulation the following parameters were used: $\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=20\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$, smoothing parameter $\sigma =2\ \mathrm {cm}$.

Figure 7

Figure 8. Effective dynamic pressure $\delta p$ compared to capillary $\bar p_{cap}=-T\bar \varkappa$, wind $\bar p_{wind}$ and viscous $\bar p_{visc}$ terms of the averaged equation (4.12). All terms are computed for the same example of steady configuration ($\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=20\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$), smoothing parameter $\sigma =2\ \mathrm {cm}$. The lower figure shows the elevation profile plotted as a reference.

Figure 8

Figure 9. The parameter space of the simulations. The lower boundary of the explored domain is defined by the wind–viscosity balance condition, while the top boundary by the ripples’ instability. Marked by hatching are the regions where the stationary configuration was reached in less than 10 (slanting hatches) or in more than 100 (vertical hatches) linear wave periods.

Figure 9

Figure 10. Evolution of wave profile asymmetry $A$ and full mechanical energy for the case of $\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=15.0\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$. Vertical lines indicate moments of time $t_{0.5}$ and $t_{0.1}$ when the oscillations of asymmetry reduce to $0.5$ or $0.1$ of the final asymmetry value.

Figure 10

Figure 11. Non-uniqueness of steady short gravity–capillary waves. Stationary wave configurations obtained in the set-up with constant wind forcing (a) and in the set-up where the wind speed has been gradually increased from a small initial value (b). The parameters are $\lambda =5\ \mathrm {cm}$, $u_*=13.5\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$.

Figure 11

Figure 12. Asymmetry of the profiles obtained in the set-up with constant wind forcing (lines with black markers) and in the set-up where the wind speed has been gradually increased from a small initial value (white markers). The wavelengths are $\lambda =5, 6, 10\ \mathrm {cm}$.

Figure 12

Figure 13. Asymmetry of the wave profile as a function of steepness (solid lines with markers), and corresponding fitting curves (dashed lines) for various wavelengths.

Figure 13

Figure 14. Alternative asymmetry measure $\delta X$ as a function of steepness. Notations as in figure 13.

Figure 14

Figure 15. Asymmetry of wave profile vs $u_*$ for various wavelengths.

Figure 15

Figure 16. Amplitude of the second harmonic $\eta _2$ of steady wave profiles vs steepness for various primary wavelengths: observed values (solid lines with circles) and the estimates (4.17) (dashed lines with triangles).

Figure 16

Figure 17. Asymmetry and width of ripples’ wavetrain as functions of viscosity (a) and surface tension (b); the wavelength $\lambda =10\ \mathrm {cm}$, wind forcing in each simulation is adjusted to keep the resulting wave steepness constant $ak=0.33$. Labels show either the coefficient of viscosity in $\mathrm {cm^2\ s^{-1}}$ (a) or the surface tension coefficient in $\mathrm {cm^3\ s^{-2}}$ (b).

Figure 17

Figure 18. Comparison of the simulation results (circles) with experimental measurements by Leykin et al. (1995) (lines with squares, only $u_*<80\ \mathrm {cm\ s^{-1}}$), Caulliez (2013) (stars) and Zavadsky & Shemer (2017) (lines with triangles).

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