Published online by Cambridge University Press: 26 June 2026
Pilsen
Pilsen, Bohemia's second largest city, has gained a global reputation for its exceptional beer and the impressive Škoda munition works. Nowadays, a charming park envelops the historic houses that boast the coveted “license to brew.” However, when Smetana first arrived in Pilsen, the city was only beginning to dismantle its old town ramparts. The mayor was determined to beautify the city, systematically tearing down the walls and gates that once protected this Catholic community from the Hussites in the fifteenth century and Wallenstein's soldiers during the Thirty Years’ War. In the 1840s, the town still retained much of its prosperity and prestige. The central square featured a Gothic cathedral and a Renaissance town hall. A testament to history, the house where Mikuláš Bakalář's printing press operated in 1504 still stood. This press, one of the oldest in Bohemia, delivered the first news to the Czechs about the discovery of America. On the town's outskirts, Czech villages preserved their traditional customs and vibrant costumes, much like those depicted in The Bartered Bride. Along the Berounka and Radbuza rivers, old castles dotted the landscape, likely serving as destinations for many youthful, romantic escapades. When Smetana arrived, Pilsen's population was around 12,000, consisting mainly of affluent individuals, mostly of Czech origin, though German was the preferred language of the upper class.
The college faculty was predominantly composed of Czech Premonstratensians, and the student body comprised Pilsen's privileged youth. During these three years, young Smetana immersed himself in the humanities, preparing for practical life under much more favorable circumstances than in Prague. This was largely because one of his teachers happened to be his cousin.
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