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5 - Elegance and civilisation

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  12 February 2026

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Summary

The chapter focuses largely on Monsieur magazine, which established itself as an important discursive and visual engine of dissemination for knowledge of men’s fashion as well as a graphic cipher of larger concerns for masculinity’s role in developing elegance as part of the civilising process. Like much of the book, the material explored throughout the chapter teeters between the bespoke aspects of men’s tailoring and the burgeoning and expanding ready-to-wear industry, between the unique and the mass-produced, between tradition and industrial progress, between object, text and image. It focuses its lens on art, fashion and cultural criticism to explore the way Monsieur set out to establish the cultural and sartorial parameters of the deco dandy, a figure seen as the answer to France’s post-war crisis in civilisation.

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