This chapter examines the villagers’ perceptions of tourism. As discussed in the previous chapters, Bena is not only more economically dependent on tourism than Wogo but it has also been subject to more state intervention, more changes, and is more ‘touristy’. As a result, perceptions of tourists and tourism differ between the villages. However, as this chapter discusses, there are more similarities than differences. Following a brief description of tourist–villager interaction, I will evaluate the overwhelmingly positive attitudes towards tourists before discussing the problems villagers have with some tourists and tourism. The final sections of the chapter examines the perceptions of tourism in the socio-political context and how tourism reflects the political disquiet and disillusionment with the local political system; and how the villagers perceptions have changed in the years I have been visiting.

Tourist–Villager Interaction

Villagers usually see and meet tourists when tourists visit the villages. Some villagers also see tourists when they are in Bajawa. In Bena, the vehicles hired by tourists pull up next to the village shop. When more than one vehicle arrives at once they park in an area created for parking at the bottom of the steps leading to the village. Local guides often let tourists enjoy the gentle walk down hill from the neighbouring nua of Luba, in which case the tourists arrive on foot. Either sighting transport pulling up at the shop or tourists walking down the hill is a cue for the villagers to hang out their ikats and put other souvenirs on display.

Tourists climb the steps and ‘enter’ the nua. They walk around, take photographs, examine and sometimes purchase ikat and other souvenirs, occasionally engaging in dialogue as they pass the villagers’ homes. They make their way to the viewing post at the far end of Bena and take in the spectacular views of the surrounding scenery and look down on Bena.